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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Kaeser, Greg Bender, Phil Warrender & Jim Wilson, 1972
Page Views: 1,557 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the right-most climb on the left side of the Buttress Of Cracks and climbs smooth face past three widely spaced bolts to a bolted anchor at the top. Rap off or downclimb the gully to the right (5.5).

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (100' rap)

Photos

Thomas Claiborne
San Diego
  5.10d PG13
Thomas Claiborne   San Diego
  5.10d PG13
Maybe it's just my lack of experience with slab, but I think the grade feels stiffer than a 10c. A lot of the rock has exfoliated/was actively peeling off on me. 4 days ago
Arcy Farcy poultry history--Hensel soloed this back in the early or mid '70s. It was possibly the 1st 5.10+ solo in SoCal or anywhere (?) and a bold climb for the time. Darrell, a usually cautious climber, rationale was that he could jump into East Buttress Gully if he got into trouble. Sorenson logic at its best! Cluck, cluck, cluck. Jun 17, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c PG13
Good story Phil - I'm thinking tricouni nails or Koflachs would work great. Dec 16, 2012
Phil Warrender
Stevenson Ranch, CA
 
Phil Warrender   Stevenson Ranch, CA
 
That's funny Chris - I can well imagine oozing on those tiny flakes. Back in the day, Mike led this route wearing Robbins Blue Boots that were more like hiking boots than kletterschuhe. I was still using Kronhoffers with hard ribbed soles sized 2 or more sizes small. Everything was edge, edge, edge, no friction allowed :) Note Mike's name is spelled incorrectly above; it's Kaeser (pronounced kay-zer). Aug 5, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c PG13
First time I ever tried this was on a hot day, big mistake! I could feel my shoes just oozing off the slab whenever I stopped - ended up bailing between the first two bolts and went and looked for a shady climb (which turned out to be my first experience of Hot Buttered Rump). Mar 3, 2011
Souljah
Northern NM
 
Souljah   Northern NM
 
During my early days in the Tahquitz/Suicide area I did this route several times. It was a guidebook .10c , but when "sticky rubber" became the rage , I seem to recall a loose consensus that the crux deserved a downgrade. Interesting that it's getting harder again. Feb 2, 2010
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
This is one of those climbs where if your face chops are up to date, the pro will feel adequate. I haven't done it in years but some now consider it .11a given that many of the small flakes have fallen off over the years. The first clip has gotten increasingly difficult for that reason. A yellow TCU lower down makes for some nice insurance.

BTW, Darrel Hensel solos this. (!) May 6, 2009
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.10c PG13
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.10c PG13
I agree with Bill.....sweet slab climb. TR'd this first then lead it. Nov 24, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
TR'd this one but there's juuust enough there to hold you to the rock. Man, I love slab! Awesome climb. Aug 2, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10d R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10d R
This climb is fairly continuous at its grade, and many will find themselves a bit more wanting of protection than is currently equipped on this route (myself included!). Jan 10, 2007