Arcy Farcy [Suggest Change]

This climb is fairly continuous at its grade, and many will find themselves a bit more wanting of protection than is currently equipped on this route (myself included!). Jan 10, 2007

TR'd this one but there's juuust enough there to hold you to the rock. Man, I love slab! Awesome climb. Aug 2, 2007

I agree with Bill.....sweet slab climb. TR'd this first then lead it. Nov 24, 2008

This is one of those climbs where if your face chops are up to date, the pro will feel adequate. I haven't done it in years but some now consider it .11a given that many of the small flakes have fallen off over the years. The first clip has gotten increasingly difficult for that reason. A yellow TCU lower down makes for some nice insurance.

BTW, Darrel Hensel solos this. (!) May 6, 2009

During my early days in the Tahquitz/Suicide area I did this route several times. It was a guidebook .10c , but when "sticky rubber" became the rage , I seem to recall a loose consensus that the crux deserved a downgrade. Interesting that it's getting harder again. Feb 2, 2010

First time I ever tried this was on a hot day, big mistake! I could feel my shoes just oozing off the slab whenever I stopped - ended up bailing between the first two bolts and went and looked for a shady climb (which turned out to be my first experience of Hot Buttered Rump). Mar 3, 2011

That's funny Chris - I can well imagine oozing on those tiny flakes. Back in the day, Mike led this route wearing Robbins Blue Boots that were more like hiking boots than kletterschuhe. I was still using Kronhoffers with hard ribbed soles sized 2 or more sizes small. Everything was edge, edge, edge, no friction allowed :) Note Mike's name is spelled incorrectly above; it's Kaeser (pronounced kay-zer). Aug 5, 2012

Good story Phil - I'm thinking tricouni nails or Koflachs would work great. Dec 16, 2012

Arcy Farcy poultry history--Hensel soloed this back in the early or mid '70s. It was possibly the 1st 5.10+ solo in SoCal or anywhere (?) and a bold climb for the time. Darrell, a usually cautious climber, rationale was that he could jump into East Buttress Gully if he got into trouble. Sorenson logic at its best! Cluck, cluck, cluck. Jun 17, 2013

Definitely not 5.11 yet IMO. Easier than the cruxes on Valhalla and Chingadera. Quite safe despite the lack of bolts. Nov 15, 2017