Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Kaeser, Greg Bender, Phil Warrender & Jim Wilson, 1972
Page Views: 1,695 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


34 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the right-most climb on the left side of the Buttress Of Cracks and climbs smooth face past three widely spaced bolts to a bolted anchor at the top. Rap off or downclimb the gully to the right (5.5).

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (100' rap)

Add New Photo
Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

Arcy Farcy (5.10d R)
Arcy Farcy (5.10d R)
 2
Bolts 1 and 2, with bolt three spaced at an even greater distance.
Bolts 1 and 2, with bolt three spaced at an eve…
 1

10 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10d R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10d R
This climb is fairly continuous at its grade, and many will find themselves a bit more wanting of protection than is currently equipped on this route (myself included!). Jan 10, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
TR'd this one but there's juuust enough there to hold you to the rock. Man, I love slab! Awesome climb. Aug 2, 2007
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.10c PG13
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.10c PG13
I agree with Bill.....sweet slab climb. TR'd this first then lead it. Nov 24, 2008
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
This is one of those climbs where if your face chops are up to date, the pro will feel adequate. I haven't done it in years but some now consider it .11a given that many of the small flakes have fallen off over the years. The first clip has gotten increasingly difficult for that reason. A yellow TCU lower down makes for some nice insurance.

BTW, Darrel Hensel solos this. (!) May 6, 2009
Souljah
Northern NM
 
Souljah   Northern NM
 
During my early days in the Tahquitz/Suicide area I did this route several times. It was a guidebook .10c , but when "sticky rubber" became the rage , I seem to recall a loose consensus that the crux deserved a downgrade. Interesting that it's getting harder again. Feb 2, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c PG13
First time I ever tried this was on a hot day, big mistake! I could feel my shoes just oozing off the slab whenever I stopped - ended up bailing between the first two bolts and went and looked for a shady climb (which turned out to be my first experience of Hot Buttered Rump). Mar 3, 2011
Phil Warrender
Stevenson Ranch, CA
 
Phil Warrender   Stevenson Ranch, CA
 
That's funny Chris - I can well imagine oozing on those tiny flakes. Back in the day, Mike led this route wearing Robbins Blue Boots that were more like hiking boots than kletterschuhe. I was still using Kronhoffers with hard ribbed soles sized 2 or more sizes small. Everything was edge, edge, edge, no friction allowed :) Note Mike's name is spelled incorrectly above; it's Kaeser (pronounced kay-zer). Aug 5, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c PG13
Good story Phil - I'm thinking tricouni nails or Koflachs would work great. Dec 16, 2012
The Boy/Colin
The Boy/Colin  
Arcy Farcy poultry history--Hensel soloed this back in the early or mid '70s. It was possibly the 1st 5.10+ solo in SoCal or anywhere (?) and a bold climb for the time. Darrell, a usually cautious climber, rationale was that he could jump into East Buttress Gully if he got into trouble. Sorenson logic at its best! Cluck, cluck, cluck. Jun 17, 2013
Thomas Claiborne
  5.10d PG13
Thomas Claiborne  
  5.10d PG13
Definitely not 5.11 yet IMO. Easier than the cruxes on Valhalla and Chingadera. Quite safe despite the lack of bolts. Nov 15, 2017