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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Lee Harrell and S. Wood, August 1967
Page Views: 7,124 total, 49/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starts up a right-facing flake or directly up the face to reach a finger crack at the base of a large hollow-sounding flake. Continue past the flake and over a small overlap/roof to a flared section (small gear in the back) and finish up a flake system with incut face holds.

Not your typical 5.8 route as it offers a wide variety of climbing styles and is sure to hold your attention throughout.

Protection

Gear to 3" including wires, 2 bolt anchor/rap
Fernando Cal
Long Beach, CA
  5.8
Fernando Cal   Long Beach, CA
  5.8
Fun climb, protects well (didnt use the flakes), used almost full rack and ran out the top a bit. Roof section is well protected. Gets some shade at the bottom early in the morning. Aug 21, 2017
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
When this route was originally done, it was only 5.6. Since then a block fell off the climb, forming the crux roof. The block that fell is still at the base of the route; you can see old pin scars on it! Apr 28, 2016
Kent Rogers
Beaver, PA
Kent Rogers   Beaver, PA
Club Sandwich 5.10d R Begin with a 5.10 run out to reach a bolt just right of The Hernia, then climb a flake system up and left to join The Hernia at its crux. Pro: 0.5 to 3 inches. FA: Chongo Brogers, 1989 w/out the bolt. Apr 24, 2016
I found an offset metolius jammed in the back of the flared crack of the roof gave me the calmz to do it. Feb 25, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8
Fun. The giant, hollow sounding flake before the roof sure is creepy though. Oct 4, 2013
Yacov  
BETA - Once pulling over the crux (bulge), you'll find a perfect green camelot (.75) placement. Jun 10, 2013
The Ruin-er
CA
  5.8
The Ruin-er   CA
  5.8
Bill said it. Jun 3, 2012
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Nice fun route considering it has been raining and the rocks were a bit wet. The roof was definitely a fun section even on top rope. Thanks to Clark Jacobs and Russell Romero for showing us around. Even w/ the torrential rain and t-storms, we still managed to get a few climbs in! What a fun weekend! :) Aug 4, 2011
Indira Lower  
 
I loved this climb, It's good for the person who is a bit more intimidated by a roof, because this one is easy to get over. I suggest you protect just below and then just go over, protect after you're up. If you commit to the move it's more secure to just get over it to a better hold first ( don't bother placing under the roof). Aug 1, 2011
mmurduff Mic  
 
I would give this route 2 stars. Excellent representation of 5.8 with a fantastic finish. USed tri-cams, nuts, #3 and others. Jul 11, 2009
This was a very nice route and 5.8 seems like a reasonable grade. We did do the bolted face extension and it seemed harder than the 10a given in the guidebook. Especially when part of the best right handhold broke off. Perhaps it has gotten harder over time. Apr 21, 2009
858jason
  5.8+
858jason  
  5.8+
Always interesting to find out what others have used for gear. I found placements for a 1, 2, and 3 Camalot. May 5, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This is a fantastic climb for the grade. The crux (shifting from the right-arching crack to a left-facing lieback on rounded holds) was heady and sustained but rewards the leader with a bomber rest afterwards. I mostly led this with aliens - very few cam placements over .75 Camelot. Jul 25, 2007
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
The Hernia is a good fun climb with several hard sections. Getting off the ground gets you thinking, getting into the left facing flake above is awkward and insecure, and the upper face past the bolt is a bit intimidating. Rap anchors send you directly over Winter Solstice (11c) for a good look at nothing and works as a great top rope for this smear fest of a route. Jun 6, 2006