The Hernia

The Hernia is a good fun climb with several hard sections. Getting off the ground gets you thinking, getting into the left facing flake above is awkward and insecure, and the upper face past the bolt is a bit intimidating. Rap anchors send you directly over Winter Solstice (11c) for a good look at nothing and works as a great top rope for this smear fest of a route. Jun 6, 2006

This is a fantastic climb for the grade. The crux (shifting from the right-arching crack to a left-facing lieback on rounded holds) was heady and sustained but rewards the leader with a bomber rest afterwards. I mostly led this with aliens - very few cam placements over .75 Camelot. Jul 25, 2007

Always interesting to find out what others have used for gear. I found placements for a 1, 2, and 3 Camalot. May 5, 2008

This was a very nice route and 5.8 seems like a reasonable grade. We did do the bolted face extension and it seemed harder than the 10a given in the guidebook. Especially when part of the best right handhold broke off. Perhaps it has gotten harder over time. Apr 21, 2009

I would give this route 2 stars. Excellent representation of 5.8 with a fantastic finish. USed tri-cams, nuts, #3 and others. Jul 11, 2009

I loved this climb, It's good for the person who is a bit more intimidated by a roof, because this one is easy to get over. I suggest you protect just below and then just go over, protect after you're up. If you commit to the move it's more secure to just get over it to a better hold first ( don't bother placing under the roof). Aug 1, 2011

Nice fun route considering it has been raining and the rocks were a bit wet. The roof was definitely a fun section even on top rope. Thanks to Clark Jacobs and Russell Romero for showing us around. Even w/ the torrential rain and t-storms, we still managed to get a few climbs in! What a fun weekend! :) Aug 4, 2011

Bill said it. Jun 3, 2012

BETA - Once pulling over the crux (bulge), you'll find a perfect green camelot (.75) placement. Jun 10, 2013

Fun. The giant, hollow sounding flake before the roof sure is creepy though. Oct 4, 2013

I found an offset metolius jammed in the back of the flared crack of the roof gave me the calmz to do it. Feb 25, 2014

Club Sandwich 5.10d R Begin with a 5.10 run out to reach a bolt just right of The Hernia, then climb a flake system up and left to join The Hernia at its crux. Pro: 0.5 to 3 inches. FA: Chongo Brogers, 1989 w/out the bolt. Apr 24, 2016

When this route was originally done, it was only 5.6. Since then a block fell off the climb, forming the crux roof. The block that fell is still at the base of the route; you can see old pin scars on it! Apr 28, 2016

Fun climb, protects well (didnt use the flakes), used almost full rack and ran out the top a bit. Roof section is well protected. Gets some shade at the bottom early in the morning. Aug 21, 2017