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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Hamilton Collins & Greg Rzonka, December 21, 1985
Page Views: 2,154 total, 15/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thin and continuous for much of the upper half, this challenging face route is best done when conditions are cold and crisp to ensure success. Although reasonably well protected for much of it's length the stretch going to the last bolt is a good 20 feet between bolts, so heads-up!

Start up a thin flake system, pass a black knob, and work up left and then back right to reach the 3rd bolt and the start of the difficulties. Move slightly right and up on tiny edges/friction to reach the 4th bolt and then continue up gradually more featured face to the top.

  • Originally rated 5.11a this climb has gotten more difficult over time as most of the tiny edges used on the first ascent have broken off and the rock has become polished from traffic.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (100' rap)
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
A very good route although the holds are a bit friable through the crux. Moderately desperate and sustained from the 3rd through the fifth bolt with some decent fall potential. I don't think it warrants an R rating though. Oct 18, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Wickedly sustained. Oct 4, 2013
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
Finally sacked up and led this in December--should have waited for the Winter Solstice but....

I agree with the previous poster--bolts DO NOT equal sport. However, I found the route perfectly protected.

It is possible to get off route near the 4th bolt by venturing too far towards Arcy Farcy. The traverse back in is truly THIN. Not recommended. Feb 28, 2013
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
This route is most definitely not a sport climb. Aug 8, 2011
Indira Lower
  5.11b/c PG13
Indira Lower  
  5.11b/c PG13
I loved this climb. Some of the tiny, paper thin flakes to hold onto with only your finger prints break off, so check them before relying on them :).The crux is at the third bolt. Since you'd be clipped in at the bolt line, it makes the move a bit less intimidating. It's listed as "trad", but it's a sport climb...humm Aug 1, 2011
Choncho  
This thing is pretty tough. Did it in the 80s, 90s and again a few years ago. Could be approaching 11d. Jul 9, 2010
Souljah
Northern NM
 
Souljah   Northern NM
 
I was fortunate to get one of the earlier ascents of this route. As I recall I found it sketchiest near the top due to a lot of loose flakes. Good climbing though. 11a at that time. Feb 2, 2010
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Originally the route was 11a, back when I lead it.
Many people toprope it now that there are convenience anchors at the top.
This results in a lot of feeble attempts with lots of slipping by people who are not up for the lead.
Which results in much faster polishing of the holds than would have happened without the convenience anchors, so now it's quite a bit harder.
Which results in even more people not wanting to lead it.
Me for instance. Jul 30, 2007
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
After being told by a nice local climber that this route was 10d, I was shocked and amazed at the lack of holds, size of holds, and difficulty of this rather smooth face. 10d, 10d, man am I out of shape! Am I blind? 10d, 10d, I could never, ever lead this. After a wrong hand mantle and desperate hard move to good holds at the first bolt, the climb continues up with almost nothing for hands and feet. At many places you wonder why the boots are sticking and why you are not on the rope. It is a LONG way from 3rd to 4th bolt and although much easier climbing (maybe 10c) than the crux between 2nd and 3rd bolt, this would be an incredibly bold lead. Good job first ascent party and anyone with a successful lead! I was relieved to find out that the 10d referred to was probably Arcy Farcy just to the right. Jun 6, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11+ R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11+ R
Truly frantic smearing, stop and fall off. Apr 17, 2006