Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,183 total · 5/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Sep 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

This route starts just to the right of "The Put In" on a fractured flake. Climb 5.9 friction past the two historic bolts (don't even think of falling or weighting these beauties!). Head left and finish up "The Put In", or traverse right across the slab until you can follow right-arching cracks up to the ledge near the top of "Old Man River". For the full old-time trad experience, traverse the ledge to the right, squeeze behind the block (the infamous "Snead Slot", head up the ramp, pull the overhang (at "Slacker"), traverse right on the slab above, then head up the left-facing dihedral capped by a roof to the top of the wall. This can be done in three long pitches, and leaves you with a nasty hike down off the top, or three interesting rappels (ring anchors) and a pitch or two of ledge traversing to get back down.

Protection

Standard rack, two historic 1/4" bolts, occasional obscure fixed pins, and whatever modern sport bolts you chose to clip.

Photos

Hey, I resemble that! It's a fine slot, but to what do I owe the honor? Sep 5, 2001
Dale Haas and I replaced the two old 1/4" bolts with 1/2" SS Powers bolts and Petzl Coeur hangers (see the photos). The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA -safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

BTW, I could not find any fixed pins on the route. With the new bolts, this might make a nice variation to the start of The Put In. Jun 18, 2018
Given that the first ascent party of The Put In found an old 1/4" bolt at the crux roof (the fourth bolt) of their route, it seems pretty clear that the original line of this route climbed past the two lower bolts then headed up and left to the roof which is now part of the route The Put In. Jun 26, 2018