Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998.
Page Views: 1,881 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

Climb up on top of the large boulder that divides the upper River Wall traverse. Then the fun begins. A thin 11d section leads to the 12b crux at a roof. A huge ledge afer this crux gives a great rest, use it. Finish on delicat yet somewhat powerful overhung moves with some fun underclings, 11d. Excellent route.

Protection

10 bolts/2 bolt anchor. Bring a few extra draws in case this count is off.

Photos

Nate Weitzel
  5.12b
Nate Weitzel  
  5.12b
Correct.....while not a car sized ledge, it is big enough for a no hands rest, although some balance is needed, so this qualifies as huge in my book..... Sep 5, 2001
Easy 11d. I'm 5'4" Aug 19, 2002
ac
  5.12a
ac  
  5.12a
Probably one of the best easy-12 routes in Clear Creek Aug 1, 2005
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
I think the moves below and above the crux roof are technically harder. I would have a hard time calling any move 5.12, but lots of sustained, long powerful 11 moves. (6'2", +4)

Very fun line!

Easy to swing over left to the anchors of Viagra for a TR, or hanging draws. Sep 14, 2005
Swavek Gaik
Superior, CO
Swavek Gaik   Superior, CO
It's a bit easier than Viagra Falls so I'd call it 12a. Very nice climbing though. Aug 11, 2007
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12a
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12a
No move harder than 11d, but much harder than "Hey Good Lookin". Great route and pumpy. Slightly easier than Adventure Kayak.... Aug 13, 2008
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
I can't say I really agree that there is no move harder than .11d. I haven't climbed this route since 2006, but between 1998 & 2006, I climbed it several times. The vertical face climbing above the boulder getting to the roof is arguably .12a. The crux move over the lip of the roof always felt like .12a/b. It has been a long time, but I remember a dyno to a good hold but off not so great holds. The climbing on the upper wall felt like .11d.

Definitely harder than Adventure Kayak Trundle, Wet Dream, or Peer Pressure. It is one of great classic lines in the canyon. May 12, 2017