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Routes in River Wall

Adventure Kayak Trundle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beach Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bottom Side Down S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clear Water Revival S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evil S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Float Trip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flood Control S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goin' Fishin' S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grilled Trout S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Human Rites S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Muddy Waters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Man River S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overflow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Put In, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right To Laugh S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right to Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
River Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
River Grill S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
River Jam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
River Mild, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
River Walk T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
River Wild, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slacker S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Splash S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Take Me to the River S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Up A Creek T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Viagra Falls S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Water Sports S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Water Sports Direct Start S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
White Water S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 1,031 total · 5/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Viagra Falls, despite the name, is one of the better lines on the River Wall. It serves up the crux moves right away, between bolts 3 and 4. This is a thin, powerful and technical crux. Once you make it through these moves, you are rewarded with sweet climbing on slightly overhung rock, with good jugs and even a short crack with some nice lieback moves. The upper section stays moderate with climbing in the 5.10 to lower 5.11 range. Good climbing, solid rock, but a little dirty near the top. Have fun....

Protection

2 bolt / 9 bolts? / 2 bolt anchor. This route shares the anchor with route number 7 (to the right).

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.12c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12c
I haven't climbed this route since 2001, but figured I'd add some info. Gently overhanging climbing leads up to the 2nd bolt & then traverses left into a right-facing corner. The corner leads to a small overhang & 3rd bolt. The crux is at the 3rd bolt. It involves an intricate vertical face traverse right below the small overhang. The 4th bolt is just over the lip, & it is a tricky clip off an undercling. This is followed by a big reach off the undercling up right to a jug. Don't skip the 4th bolt.

My long time partner, Henry Lester decided to skip it on his redpoint burn & missed the jug. He came screaming off head first & stopped below the 1st bolt with his back hitting the wall. He may have hit his head but just lightly. No blood or bruise. I tried to make it as dynamic of a catch as possible. I would have paid out more slack if he was farther up the wall. Fall too far & it's a ledge fall. He was dazed from the fall but still managed to belay & climb.

At the 6th bolt, it is possible to shake out. The difficulty eases above, but the climbing is still pumpy to end. There are 10 protection bolts. May 12, 2017
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
I found this significantly harder than White Water, AKT, and River Dance. The opening moves off the ground were powerful with little to no feet. 12c. Jul 22, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12b/c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12b/c
Man i thought this thing was tough... compared to other 12b's in the canyon this felt more 12b/c-ish to me. hard crux moves and a full value pump.

really fun route get on it Jun 11, 2009
If this is 12a, then some 12a's at the BRC need modification, like adding some hard moves! Sep 3, 2002
I thought that this route is harder the taller you are. I found it difficult to scrunch myself up under the roof to stem out right. 12b is Ok w/me. Aug 22, 2002
sorry! that's my(jim redo's)comment not Anonymous coward. I spaced the name thing. Aug 20, 2002
Didnt get to try it . It started raining. But I'll get back to you. Aug 20, 2002
Jim Redo, Did you get a chance to do The River Wild (just left of Viagra Falls)? I would be curious what you think the correct rating is. There was a bit of a debate about it for awhile.

Aug 20, 2002
-12a Aug 19, 2002
Alan, It is so great to hear someone who has equipped so many routes himself reiterate the idea that because you have placed bolts or done the F.A. on a route that it in no way implies ownership. It seems to me that a route is made up by the holds on the rock, not the bolts that protect someone who is climbing up them. "my route" should only apply to the gym. By the way, Viagra Falls is a great route, I have yet to redpoint it but would say that 12.c felt about right to me.... Jul 25, 2002
The bolts on AKT were placed from the top down in order to even be able to toprope and clean the route. I had to guess where they should go, a tactic that works 90% of the time. In the original configuration AKT was still a safe route as the new bolt is only 3 feet above the previous one - that's why I didn't add another. Regardless the new bolt is Ok w/me. I've clipped it on subsequent ascents. the same crew did rearrange some bolts at Devil's Head that altered the original routes. I later removed them and restored the routes to their original configuration as they were all in quite clippable redpoint positions. Personally, I don't get too excited about the whole add a bolt deal and first ascentionist stuff, although it is probably not a good idea to move bolts around on other people's routes without talking to them as you may be missing something that they didn't. Feb 22, 2002
Alan- I did not want to "dis" Mark, you, or anyone. My point was that Mark, in the case of my friend's route (and other routes I know of), did not ask but instead took unilateral action to ADD a bolt (not "reconfigure" the bolts) to a route that had already been led, safely I might add. Perhaps my tone was wrong, I apologize. Let's not turn this into anything but an exchange of ideas. I respect your opinion. My point was: Who is Mark, or you, or anyone, that you make the rules and decide what is a safe route or not, or what was done correctly or not by the FA party? Furthermore, why does every "unsafe" route have to be "made right"? There are other climbers out there that don't need, nor want, bolts added to established routes. Personally I feel established routes do not need to be "re-done" so the masses can hang their way up them. I know this is a touchy subject, and I mean no offense- but these actions offend ME. PS Mark HAS contributed a lot to the local scene, I said that earlier, but he is by no means perfect. Personally, in this instance, I think he made a mistake. Jul 28, 2001
No offense, and I thank Mark for all the time and energy (and _) he has put towards establishing mostly good routes, but what is it with Mark adding bolts to other people's routes? Recently I had another friend tell me Mark added a bolt to one of his routes- without permission (my friend is thinking of removing it). Does Mark have a right to be doing this? Should every bolt route be completely without (perceived) risk? What ever happened to "flashing routes on pure adrenaline"? P.S. Sorry I'm a big chicken and posted without my name. 95_ of the time what Mark does is a real service to the climbing community. Just a bit concerned that he is making these unilateral decisions and changing the nature and character of other people's routes. Jul 26, 2001
Nate Weitzel  
 
It is hard to say when we talk of the ratings game. I thought White Water, while rated 12b, was easier than AKT. I onsighted White Water, while AKT took me four tries. I do agree that Viagra Falls is harder than both of the above. So maybe it is 12c, I sometimes feel that I am losing my feel for what a route should be rated!!!! Jul 24, 2001