Type: Trad, Sport, 225 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Adam Huxley, Chuck Fitch, Sept. 2012
Page Views: 1,768 total · 25/month
Shared By: C Fitch on Aug 12, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

Wade along the base of the River Wall to a beach at the south end of the cliff.

P1. 5.9, 115'. Begin by an old rail road spike at eye level, under a small roof. Pass the roof on the right with bolts, and follow a crack system. A bolt protects a crux slab move at 2/3 height. A 2 bolt anchor is found under the large roof dihedral.

P2. 5.10+, 40'. Follow the dihedral past the bolts, to a 2 bolt anchor on the slab above.

P3. 5.7, 70'. Climb the crack system above to a single protection bolt, and work your way up and left on steps to the ledge, at the top of "Right to Laugh", or for a much better finish, traverse left about 30' onto "Right to Laugh". Follow "Right to Laugh" to its 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This route is a long continuous crack system on the far right of the cliff, a couple hundred feet past the start of "Flood Control".

Rappel off the route, a 60m rope puts you on a small ledge under the initial roof, and scramble down, or a 70m rope puts you on the beach. With a little luck, you'll keep your rope dry.

Protection

P1. 4 bolts, small to medium cams or nuts, and use long runners on bolts under initial roof.
P2. 4 bolts, a couple of long runners.
P3. 1 bolt and a few small to medium cams or nuts.

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