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Routes in River Wall

Adventure Kayak Trundle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beach Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bottom Side Down S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clear Water Revival S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evil S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Float Trip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flood Control S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goin' Fishin' S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grilled Trout S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Human Rites S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Muddy Waters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Man River S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overflow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Put In, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right To Laugh S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right to Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
River Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
River Grill S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
River Jam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
River Mild, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
River Walk T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
River Wild, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slacker S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Splash S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Take Me to the River S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Up A Creek T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Viagra Falls S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Water Sports S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Water Sports Direct Start S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
White Water S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 461 total, 2/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Sep 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a product of the "Summer 2000 River Wall Fill In The Blanks Tour", and the most difficult line on the lower wall. From the ledge at the water's edge, head up through the forest and blocks for three bolts (shared with "Up A Creek"). Step left from the third clip, reach around the corner and hang a long sling on the fourth bolt. Unclip the third bolt, then pull a well vegetated 5.11+ crux past the bolt. Get established under the roof and clip short on the bolt in the roof. Clip a long sling on the bolt as well. Pull up on sloping pinches on the left and make a blind clip for a bolt just over the lip. Once you've got it, extend the clip in the roof. The crux is pulling over the lip (think 5.12a sloping crimp mantle). Rejoin "Up A Creek" for a slab hike to the anchors.

DON'T TOPROPE THIS ROUTE UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR ROPE CUT! There is a sharp edge extending about 15' left and right along the lip of the overhang. It has been rounded off, but any swinging across the edge on a rope under tension WILL CUT YOUR ROPE!

Protection

10 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings. Three long slings to ease rope drag.

Photos

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Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
 
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
 
The crux on this route is pretty entertaining and makes up for the vegetated approach. The upper slab is ok although maybe not as good as its neighbors on the lower wall.

Conditions have changed a bit since 2001.

Spoiler alert:

Climb blocks, and step carefully around dirt until the second bolt. A long sling is advised on this one. Don't clip the third bolt on Up a Creek, rather reach (or move) around the corner to the left and clip the third bolt on FT.
Climbing past this bolt has cleaned up and is a little licheny but not overgrown. Pre-clipping this bolt would make your life easier.

The 4th bolt can be clipped long or short. A 17 cm sling gives a little rope drag on the final slab but nothing too irritating.

The 5th bolt, just over the roof, would be difficult to hang on lead, especially, since it's difficult to see from below. I pre-hung it after warming up on an adjacent line. Kudos for improving on my style.

My final sequence involved 3 different heel hooks, with a little sloper crimping thrown in.

Kind of a diamond in the rough, I was glad I finally got on it. Nov 9, 2016