Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, June, 2000
Page Views: 1,319 total · 9/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Mar 17, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

The terrific upper half is a bolted crack, but I'm not complaining. Start in the alcove to the right of the giant boulder, as for Adventure Kayak and River Dance. Up & right easily on the slab (R of RD) and follow a vertical face to a roof. The roof (crux) is wild, pumpy and complex for the legs/feet. (Note, there is a tempting and large wedged block midway through this passage which moves when gently pulled from some directions.) Above the roof, gain a good rest then follow an interesting 5.10 handcrack most of the rest of the way to the anchors. Use long slings on the 6th and 7th bolts to avoid rope drag.

Felt pretty solid in the grade, on a par w/ Hey Good Looking at Wall of the '90s.

Route 13 in the beta photo. This is the pitch described by Josh Finklestein under the comments for Slacker.

Protection

11 bolts.

Photos

I've moved my comment to its proper location. This is the route that begins from the first belay bolts right of the AKT belay and trends generally right, pulling a roof to gain a rest at a chockstone followed by a pumpy jam crack. It's not to be missed--one of the best 5.11s in Clear Creek, on par with Curvaceous at Wall of the '90s but certainly harder. Beautiful rock, interesting movement, and spectacular position on the upper wall. Probably my favorite route on the River Wall, and there are some very fine routes there.

If you're a decent crack climber, the upper section will not feel that difficult. Beware of rope drag--unclipping the second to last bolt below the roof (after clipping the last bolt below the roof, of course) is advised. Long slings in other spots may help as well, although I didn't use them.

Physical and solid at the grade. May 13, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
Does anyone know what the variation that cuts left after the roof is? Aug 10, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Surprised no one else was as spooked about the 2 giant, detatched blocks under the roof as I was. The first one you can barely avoid and is a large chockstone that moves, the second is a very, very large block that you have to clip the next bolt from. It's not loose, but certainly sounds like death. Spooky!

Hard to give this route any stars with a canyon full of excellent routes that don't sound like death. Sep 21, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Agree! I have always thought those chockstones were sketchy! Sep 24, 2010