Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, Richard Wright, Spring 2000
Page Views: 2,160 total · 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

This line is one of the most accessible climbs anywhere and is quite good for a quick, after-work climbing fix. To the right of the 5.7 approach pitch, The Put In, is a small alcove just big enough to get the packs out of the rain. The climbing starts here up a short vertical wall for 15 feet. Chase a slab for a couple of clips and dash up to a moderately complex corner system with a finger lock at its top. This is a fun crux, and I like to heel hook it, however, it has been done numerous other ways. The minor beta for this move is simply this: don't go looking for a lot stuff on the right that is not there; use the corner and crack system. Getting the clip over the corner is tricky and feels a lot more committing than would be expected. Either pull over the corner and then clip, or take an extendo clip that can be used below the lip. Another fun route from Das RouteMeister.

Protection

QD only. This 80 ft route needs a bit less than a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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