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Routes in River Wall

Adventure Kayak Trundle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beach Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bottom Side Down S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clear Water Revival S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evil S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Float Trip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flood Control S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goin' Fishin' S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grilled Trout S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Human Rites S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Muddy Waters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Man River S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overflow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Put In, The S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Right To Laugh S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right to Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
River Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
River Grill S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
River Jam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
River Mild, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
River Walk T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
River Wild, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slacker S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Splash S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Take Me to the River S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Up A Creek T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Viagra Falls S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Water Sports S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Water Sports Direct Start S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
White Water S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 154 total · 1/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Sep 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

From the ledge at the water's edge, look straight up at the overhang above. Note the lush greenery, reminiscent of a rain forest. Note the bolts leading straight up through the forest. Follow the bolts, taking care to tread only where the stone has been delicately brushed clean. For a crux, make a big reach up for a sloping mantle past a giant moss hummock. Think of the multitude of living organisms in that biotic treasure. Resist the temptation to hurl it at your belayer as you seek hidden jugs (they aren't there). Surmount the overhang and slab hike to the ledge.

DON'T TOPROPE THIS ROUTE UNLESS YOU DON'T MIND CUTTING YOUR ROPE. See the description for "Float Trip" for details.

Protection

Nine bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
This COULD be one of the better routes on the River Wall if the route was better cleaned on first ascent. There is really no need to keep that moss there, or the moss all around it by your feet. (Chances of slipping all over that stuff exist, and with the high clip already, makes a fall here a bad one). I would suggest it be cleaned a little more and it will see more traffic, also there is no mention of the bolts to the left of this, joining in with the route, once over the little roof, onto the slab. A better description could be, to end with the anchors atop "Bottom Side Down" and the route is to the left of Bottom Side Down, by one bolted line. A nice line, 2 stars for moves, 3 stars if it were clean.... Sep 16, 2001
Alan, if I'm not mistaken, there is a two bolt variation to the left here?? (at bolts 3 and 4 if I remember correctly) Any beta? Thanks. Oct 23, 2002
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
 
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
 
Really not too bad a route. Could use a little moss removal if someone happens to comes by with a brush. Sep 22, 2012
Don't climb this route.

The route is extremely dirty, but that's not the issue. Right through the crux (the last roof before getting to the slab above), there is a large, milk-jug-sized block directly in the climber's path that is VERY loose. I knocked on it, and some lichen/dirt fell out from the seam behind it. It's probably possible to climb without using it, but it's in such a bad spot that I figured it would be too easy to just accidentally toe into it while I was manteling the roof above, and I just bailed right to the 10d.

Also FYI it is now bolted. Looked like 11+2. Sep 21, 2018

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