Type: Trad
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 203 total · 1/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Sep 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details


From the ledge at the water's edge, look straight up at the overhang above. Note the lush greenery, reminiscent of a rain forest. Note the bolts leading straight up through the forest. Follow the bolts, taking care to tread only where the stone has been delicately brushed clean. For a crux, make a big reach up for a sloping mantle past a giant moss hummock. Think of the multitude of living organisms in that biotic treasure. Resist the temptation to hurl it at your belayer as you seek hidden jugs (they aren't there). Surmount the overhang and slab hike to the ledge.

DON'T TOPROPE THIS ROUTE UNLESS YOU DON'T MIND CUTTING YOUR ROPE. See the description for "Float Trip" for details.


Nine bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rings.


- No Photos -
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
This COULD be one of the better routes on the River Wall if the route was better cleaned on first ascent. There is really no need to keep that moss there, or the moss all around it by your feet. (Chances of slipping all over that stuff exist, and with the high clip already, makes a fall here a bad one). I would suggest it be cleaned a little more and it will see more traffic, also there is no mention of the bolts to the left of this, joining in with the route, once over the little roof, onto the slab. A better description could be, to end with the anchors atop "Bottom Side Down" and the route is to the left of Bottom Side Down, by one bolted line. A nice line, 2 stars for moves, 3 stars if it were clean.... Sep 16, 2001
Alan, if I'm not mistaken, there is a two bolt variation to the left here?? (at bolts 3 and 4 if I remember correctly) Any beta? Thanks. Oct 23, 2002
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
Really not too bad a route. Could use a little moss removal if someone happens to comes by with a brush. Sep 22, 2012
Will B
Will B  
Don't climb this route.

The route is extremely dirty, but that's not the issue. Right through the crux (the last roof before getting to the slab above), there is a large, milk-jug-sized block directly in the climber's path that is VERY loose. I knocked on it, and some lichen/dirt fell out from the seam behind it. It's probably possible to climb without using it, but it's in such a bad spot that I figured it would be too easy to just accidentally toe into it while I was manteling the roof above, and I just bailed right to the 10d.

Also FYI it is now bolted. Looked like 11+2. Sep 21, 2018