Type: Sport
FA: Todd Anderson, June 1998
Page Views: 4,674 total · 21/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Sweet climbing on a variety of holds, jugs, cracks, and slopers. Crank the 12a crux at third bolt, and climb through the 11 rest section. Finish the overhung 5.11c finale. Look for the good jug hold before clipping the anchors! Fantastic route!!!

Protection

Well bolted. 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Bring a 60 m rope.

Photos

ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Careful at the crux. I took a bad fall here, swung upsidedown lookin 80+ feet down at the river wasn't too cool then to swing back and hit my head on the wall under the overhang: not cool either. Make sure you can clip dat third bolt. Spooked me pretty good and haven't been back since. Mar 6, 2003
richard magill
  5.12a
richard magill  
  5.12a
Great climbing - tricky crux followed by steep 5.11 to the anchors.

Great job by Tod Anderson. Dec 7, 2004
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
Great route. Jul 20, 2008
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
OMG! Best 12a in the canyon?!?

BTW, Nate's doing the crux the hard way in that pic, there's an easier way.... Jul 16, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
I'm torn between AKT and Wet Dream. Both are sooooo excellent. Jul 16, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Hmmm, Darth, Monty....
In that range, I definitely would also add: 100 Proof, Hipster, Balkan Dirt Diving, Eiger Direct, Peer Pressure, and maybe Garrett's Revenge.... Jul 19, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
I did not think it was that good. The top half is good, but the bottom half has some crumbly rock and an awkward and dangerous crux. Aug 30, 2012
The fall off the crux is not dangerous if you clip the third bolt and if (spoiler beta alert >>) you do the crux by getting your left foot up first and manteling with your right hand. My partner came off this way, and it kind of spun him around, but he was not in danger of hitting his head. It is pretty important to watch your legs to keep them from getting tangled in the rope. I always lead with a helmet (the "dad rule"), which makes getting out from under the roof awkward, but it would protect any bump coming off at the crux. Sep 11, 2012
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
A decent route but an awkward, thrutchy crux. However, the upper section flows nicely. I didn't notice anything crumbly. Not in my top 10, with all due respect. Oct 4, 2012
Brett S.
Colorado
 
Brett S.   Colorado
 
I didn't find any bad rock on this route either, everything above the crux is awesome .11- climbing. The crux itself is only kinda cool, fairly awkward, and uncomfortable (at least with how I climbed it). Well worth a trip up the lower slabs for this one if only for the amazing position of the upper 60 ft. of this climb. 2 1/2 stars. Nov 19, 2015