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Original Route
5.9,
Trad, 3 pitches,
Avg: 1.7 from 15
votes
FA: unknown
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> River Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31 Visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/news/2… Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/alerts… The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season. Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This route starts just to the right of "The Put In" on a fractured flake. Climb 5.9 friction past the two bolts. Head left, and finish up "The Put In", or traverse right across the slab until you can follow right-arching cracks up to the ledge near the top of "Old Man River". For the full old-time trad experience, traverse the ledge to the right, squeeze behind the block (the infamous "Snead Slot", head up the ramp, pull the overhang (at "Slacker"), traverse right on the slab above, then head up the left-facing dihedral capped by a roof to the top of the wall. This can be done in three long pitches and leaves you with a nasty hike down off the top, or three interesting rappels (ring anchors) and a pitch or two of ledge traversing to get back down.
Protection
A standard rack, two historic 1/4" bolts (now updated with 1/2" SS Power bolts and Coeur hangers), occasional obscure fixed pins, and whatever modern sport bolts you chose to clip.
Silicon Valley/Boulder
BTW, I could not find any fixed pins on the route. With the new bolts, this might make a nice variation to the start of The Put In. Jun 18, 2018
Silicon Valley/Boulder