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Good roped solo climbs/crags in JT?

Original Post
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, Franktown, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

I've been both top rope soloing, and got an El mudo setup, upgraded from grigri for lead soloing.

Any recommendations for: 


-Easy climbs 5.6-5.7 with good bottom anchor potential for lead soloing, Or even sport? Hopefully will up the grade after getting used to the system.

-Crags with good walk up top rope access 5.6-5.10?

Currently at Belle CG, prefer to keep it between here and Quail Springs, i.e. not indian cove or far off the beaten path. 

Shooting for Invisibilty lessons and Continuum on Future games this morning for TRS,  which look to have top access from the left

Thanks

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

What meets your qualifications for "easy to set up a ground anchor"? 

Thin Wall is one crag that's easy to scramble up to the top with multiple routes in your target grade range. 

Sean · · Oak Park, CA · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 4,797

Diagnostic on Castle Rock at Belle and Gargoyle on Zippy Rock just down the road at Stirrup Tank are crowded on wknds but fairly open on wkdays if you're already out at Belle. Free As Can Be right of Gargoyle has bolted rap anchor but can scramble up a diagonal ramp on its right. also Han Solo further right

Only Child on nearby Triple Crack Rock

Full Contact Karate on farther Hai Karate Rock has a roundabout walkoff but very nice and worth it

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, Franktown, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Ricky Harlinewrote:

What meets your qualifications for "easy to set up a ground anchor"? 

Thin Wall is one crag that's easy to scramble up to the top with multiple routes in your target grade range. 

Natural or gear anchors are fine. Sling a boulder, or tree or a good crack for gear. I don't want to be building "ground" anchors while leading off the ground for lead soloing.

Thanks,

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, Franktown, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Seanwrote:

Diagnostic on Castle Rock at Belle and Gargoyle on Zippy Rock just down the road at Stirrup Tank are crowded on wknds but fairly open on wkdays if you're already out at Belle. Free As Can Be right of Gargoyle has bolted rap anchor but can scramble up a diagonal ramp on its right. also Han Solo further right

Only Child on nearby Triple Crack Rock

Full Contact Karate on farther Hai Karate Rock has a roundabout walkoff but very nice and worth it

Thanks!

I already have pretty well exhausted the routes on Castle rock, being camped at the base. I'll have a look at the others.

Mark Webster · · Tacoma · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 240

Unless you prefer solo, it's always been easy to find  partners at Hidden Valley campground or Intersection parking lot. People pull up in the morning there for just that reason. Look for a solo person with their rock pack 

Sean · · Oak Park, CA · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 4,797

glad you already ticked Diagnostic. Stirrup Tank climbs just down the road nearby

next nearest westward:

Bite Me on N Split Dome, along way to Future Games

Beautiful Dreamer at west entrance of Cling Or Fling Corridor

Gem and Colorado Crack in Conan's Corridor, up by reversing orig walkoff via north end of corridor

Nuke The Whales on nearby Nuclear Reactor Rock

Prime Rib and Prime Cut on nearby Prime Clump

Desert Solitaire on Abbey Rock at Live Oak

Finger Locking Good on nearby North Creeper Rock

Finger Locks or Cedar Box on nearby South Creeper Rock

Small World at Small World Cliff

Lazy Day at Hall of Horrors

Trashman Roof on nearby King Dome

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, Franktown, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Mark Websterwrote:

Unless you prefer solo, it's always been easy to find  partners at Hidden Valley campground or Intersection parking lot. People pull up in the morning there for just that reason. Look for a solo person with their rock pack 

Thanks, for now I prefer solo. If you look at my profile you might get a hint why.

I've been climbing here sporadically since the early 1980s, but this is a different game.

Seanwrote:

glad you already ticked Diagnostic. Stirrup Tank climbs just down the road nearby

next nearest westward:

Bite Me on N Split Dome, along way to Future Games

Beautiful Dreamer at west entrance of Cling Or Fling Corridor

Gem and Colorado Crack in Conan's Corridor, up by reversing orig walkoff via north end of corridor

Nuke The Whales on nearby Nuclear Reactor Rock

Prime Rib and Prime Cut on nearby Prime Clump

Desert Solitaire on Abbey Rock at Live Oak

Finger Locking Good on nearby North Creeper Rock

Finger Locks or Cedar Box on nearby South Creeper Rock

Small World at Small World Cliff

Lazy Day at Hall of Horrors

Trashman Roof on nearby King Dome

Sean, Thank You! From here to hidden valley, Echo, Barker, all fair game.

Sean · · Oak Park, CA · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 4,797

Barker Dam:

Echo:

Outback:

HV:

RHV:

happy climbing!

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, Franktown, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Seanwrote:

Barker Dam:

Echo:

Outback:

HV:

RHV:

happy climbing!

Happy climbing indeed! Thanks for putting the time and energy into the list and linking everything! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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