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Routes in Peyote Cracks Formation - W. Face

Button Soup T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Face It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Left Peyote Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Middle Peyote Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Peyote Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zygote T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,236 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This crack had no apparent crux, but several moves requiring a little effort. The general protectability of the route and good rests from which to place gear make it a reasonable lead to push your grade on.

There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall. The right-most of these starts with jams and gets a little wider as you go up. There are several moves at the 5.7 or 5.8 grade, but with a good set of cams, these can all be protected before commiting.

The anchor up top requires cams of various sizes and a long coralette or webbing.

Protection

Standard J-tree rack- a few stoppers, a few cams to hand/fist sized. THe route is mostly jamming from hands to fists and protects as you would expect as such.The route can be TR's from large cams in a crack above with either long runners or a cordalette.

Photos

Pat C
Honolulu
 
Pat C   Honolulu
 
fun solo Jun 11, 2009
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
The fist sized crack is very low angle and more 4th class. Unless 5.8 is around your limit I wouldn't bother dragging along those pieces. A couple mediums and a finger-sized piece for the top will be fine. Leave the stoppers on the ground. Nov 24, 2008