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Routes in South Horror Rock

Cactus Flower T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dog Day Afternoon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Father Ocean TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flash Gordon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garden Angel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labor Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lazy Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Senior Project T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Guys Gone Nuts, Gone to the Cops TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perhaps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull My Finger, Barbara T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slickery, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This is Only a Test T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trouble Chute TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim Wilson, Mike Kaeser and Phil Warrender, November 1971
Page Views: 5,889 total, 37/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thirty feet from the left edge of the rock is this steep finger/hand crack that passes a horizontal crack partway up. Gear belay and easy walk/scramble down a low-angled ramp off the backside (climber's left).

Although this route can be a little awkward in spots it's good fun and the short approach is hard to beat. A popular route and a good introduction to the Hall of Horrors. Three stars out of five.

Location

Located on the same rock as Dog Day Afternoon but this route is on the east face and faces directly towards the road.

Protection

Gear to 2.5", especially wires
Paul Pelletier
Los Angeles, California
 
Paul Pelletier   Los Angeles, California
 
Would agree with what has been said already, nuts and stoppers work best on this route. Some larger cams (camalot 2-3) help with creating a top anchor. Apr 25, 2013
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
Bring a couple #2 for the top anchor. Oct 29, 2012
Canon  
A solid 5.7. Easy to protect, but moderately awkward in a couple spots. Easy downclimb off the back side. Jan 14, 2012
fat cow
St. Paul, MN
fat cow   St. Paul, MN
you're joking about the chains right? it takes less than a minute to walk off this thing, and you could reasonably take about five or so minutes to make a top belay anchor. chains though really? Jan 2, 2012
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
hahaha... hohoho....bwhaaaaa..... LOL!!!!!6666


Which one of you punters is going to fess up to putting SIX FEET of chain at the top of this thing as an anchor! Humans.... best comedy on earth! Mar 29, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7
Nice climb, and correctly graded at 5.7. Good pro. Mar 11, 2011
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.7
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.7
A few slightly awkward moves, but there were good jugs and great pro the whole way. I didn't see any bolts on top, but I don't think it needs them. One of the fastest walkoffs in Joshua Tree. Dec 29, 2009
peachy spohn  
 
Really fun for the grade and relatively straight forward. You can traverse at the end to the anchors of Cactus Flower and rap off from there. Safe and in the shade in the late afternoon. Mar 31, 2009
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Fun climb that puts one into some awkward positions. Fairly good pro throughout, a few spots are run out but holds are solid. Mar 31, 2009
Fun climb on tricky but positive jugs and a nice crack. Sucks up the pro nicely and seems to be a crowd pleaser.Definately worth climbing.Easy walk off. Oct 1, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
Protects well. Not much gear needed. I also agree on the walkoff being easy. No need to use anchors. Easy to place pro fro anchors. Short, fun. May 12, 2004
Fun climb, even though it's really short. Pretty easy for 5.7, although I'm not sure I'd downgrade it to 5.6. Apr 14, 2004
Randy  
Please leave the Cactus Flower anchors alone. They were put there for a good anchor for THAT route (not Lazy Day). They have been there for many years. Feb 12, 2004
I've been wanting to chop that pointless eyesore rap anchor for years. But I'll let someone else do it. Even if that anchor was put there to TR that wall it's pointless. There's natural pro right above it. Feb 11, 2004
After having not placed gear in over a year I felt pretty good just walking up and flashing this route, although I had to twist myself into a pretzel to get up it. LOL. Honestly it would be quite scary for a first lead but it's certainly not a sand bag, it's par for the course at JT... Feb 10, 2004
Dynomight510
  5.7
Dynomight510  
  5.7
The walk off is a bit steep for beginners.

Short but sweet and protects well.

Solid but no harder Sep 11, 2003
a fun climb. a little awkward for me the first time I led it.I agree, why put in a rap anchor? the downclimb is cake. Apr 29, 2003
Murf  
Why would anyone rap from this route? The downclimb takes less than a minute! Mar 17, 2003
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
Mike Epke   Denver, CO
Did this route while on trip to the park and enjoyed it. Definitely will eat up nuts, but also smaller cams, there are places towards the top that a bigger (#2 or #3) can be used. Bigger cams cams be used for the belay anchor as well, the rap chains are too far away to belay from. Mar 17, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7
Yes, this is a good climb to practice the vanishing art of chock-craft. Repeated this route again yesterday (12/28/07) for the umpteenth time - man it was cold. Some nice moves through the traverse and up and into the crack above. There's a short down climb and then a careful walk off. I've never rappelled this route. Jan 13, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.7
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.7
A couple of comments:

1) The anchor/rap bolts are about 20' to the right of the top of the route (atop Cactus Flower) and a single rope rap will get you back to the ground.

2) The route protects nicely with medium-size nuts. Didn't use anything larger than a #1 Camalot. Dec 21, 2002