Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,061 total · 6/month
Shared By: Donno on Oct 18, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

At the left edge of the south face of Rock Hudson, a gully angles 45deg up & right to the base of a short dihedral: this is Nereltne.If this short, steep climb was a full pitch it would be awesome. Pretty easy, and a safe lead, as the wide crack in the corner eats up big cams the whole way. Two bolt rap anchor on top.

Protection

big cams

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"Nereltne".<br> Photo by Blitzo.
"Nereltne". Photo by Blitzo.
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7 Comments

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M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
The anchor bolts were replaced 2/02. ASCA: "Webbing is still used and will need to be replaced occasionally, since chains would likely mar the rock over time in this instance." Oct 31, 2003
Woody Stark
Woody Stark  
This is a good lead for a novice. I'd call it a six though.If someone chops the anchors, you'll have to jump off. Nov 11, 2004
Ryan Avery
Ryan Avery  
I disagre with this being a "safte lead". You are faced with the choice of either running out an easy but steep ramp about 20 feet off the deck, or a wide low angle hard to protect chimney/offwidth to reach the corner.

Otherwise, the climbing is solid and if a full pitch would be a super classic route. Leave the small stuff on the deck as you will only want 2" and higher for this one. Mar 26, 2005
Adam Stackhouse

  5.7
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.7
Safe short and easy. Apr 17, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Sweet but short wide hands. Easy to protect with a couple #3's and a #4. No problem with the 4th class gully to gain the crack. Apr 8, 2007
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
The gulley eats up almost more time then the crack. I think the bush growing in the gulley is the routes crux. The crack is Really fun though, another J tree crack that is just sadly short. Jan 4, 2009
JSH

JSH    
Safe short and easy ... *IF* you're comfortable in the wide, and bring the gear for it.

The 5.8 under the anchors is a nice TR to catch. Apr 29, 2009