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Routes in Rock Hudson

Absolute Zero T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gem Nabors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hot Rocks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ipecac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Less than Zero TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Looney Tunes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nereltne T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 996 total · 6/month
Shared By: Donno on Oct 18, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

34 Opinions

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At the left edge of the south face of Rock Hudson, a gully angles 45deg up & right to the base of a short dihedral: this is Nereltne.If this short, steep climb was a full pitch it would be awesome. Pretty easy, and a safe lead, as the wide crack in the corner eats up big cams the whole way. Two bolt rap anchor on top.


big cams



Safe short and easy ... *IF* you're comfortable in the wide, and bring the gear for it.

The 5.8 under the anchors is a nice TR to catch. Apr 29, 2009
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
The gulley eats up almost more time then the crack. I think the bush growing in the gulley is the routes crux. The crack is Really fun though, another J tree crack that is just sadly short. Jan 4, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Sweet but short wide hands. Easy to protect with a couple #3's and a #4. No problem with the 4th class gully to gain the crack. Apr 8, 2007
Adam Stackhouse    
Safe short and easy. Apr 17, 2006
I disagre with this being a "safte lead". You are faced with the choice of either running out an easy but steep ramp about 20 feet off the deck, or a wide low angle hard to protect chimney/offwidth to reach the corner.

Otherwise, the climbing is solid and if a full pitch would be a super classic route. Leave the small stuff on the deck as you will only want 2" and higher for this one. Mar 26, 2005
This is a good lead for a novice. I'd call it a six though.If someone chops the anchors, you'll have to jump off. Nov 11, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
The anchor bolts were replaced 2/02. ASCA: "Webbing is still used and will need to be replaced occasionally, since chains would likely mar the rock over time in this instance." Oct 31, 2003

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