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Routes in The Wall - Left Side

Hands Off T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands To Yourself TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hands Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pyrannosaurus Next T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tights, Camera, Action! TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Scoops Please T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Tyrannosaurus Rex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: John Long and Brian Portoff, October 1972
Page Views: 5,419 total, 35/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

With it's easy approach, fun moves and varied climbing it's easy to see why this route is so popular. Located on the left-most section of The Wall, a little before the northern apex of the front loop in Hidden Valley Campground. The crack is enjoyable throughout it's entire length, with stemming, jamming and combinations of the two techniques all played out on good rock.

Gear belay and a somewhat circuitous but easy downclimb off the slabby backside. Hint: once down to the desert floor, head left and then follow a trail that will circle back towards the base of the climb. Three stars out of five.

Protection

Gear to 3"
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.8+
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.8+
Very aptly named! I managed 8 no-hands rests. Could have done a few more if I wanted. Jan 3, 2017
Ryan Watts
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Ryan Watts   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Some awkward and unintuitive movement -- definitely keeps you thinking the whole way. It takes great gear all the way up -- don't really see how it could be "R-ish" unless as someone else mentioned you got lazy thinking it was "just 5.8".

That being said I felt it was a bit stiff for the grade. Not a terrible sandbag but I'll call it like I see it -- 5.9 IMO. Feb 21, 2014
Brian Chastain  
  5.8
Loved this climb. Will do it again and again. It has it all. You can do a couple hand jams, finger jams/locks, stem, and even put your back into it for a chimney move in the middle section. You can put a mess of stoppers in it. Feb 20, 2012
Adam Stackhouse

  5.8+
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.8+
SketchySam
  5.8
SketchySam  
  5.8
This is quite possibly my favorite route at JTree. This aesthetic line demands flawless style and requires every technique in the book. Put a beginner on this and watch him flail. Put a pro on this and watch him have the time of his life. Nov 17, 2009
Fun climb, might have been easier if I knew how to properly hand jamb. A couple of awkward spots that require some creative movement. Hauling my camera up on a shoulder sling probably didn't help either. Dec 7, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8+
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8+
As a new leader you might find this route awkward and a bit hard. Feb 23, 2007
SirVato
Boulder
  5.8
SirVato   Boulder
  5.8
Fun route!! We did this at night which made for a fun time.
The route is directly behind our camp so, a couple of beers later boredom set in and the rack went on!!
Definitely a cool mix of jamming/stemming. The to out was real fun as well. Jan 3, 2007
Excellent, technical route. A favorite for afternoon sun. Dec 31, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.8+
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.8+
The beginning of this climb may be a bit "R-ish" for some folks. Oct 24, 2006
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.8+
Somewhat awkward, but really great moves all the way up. Not sure if what I was doing was jamming, face climbing or a weird hybrid of the two. Definitely makes you think about how to use your feet and set your body up correctly for the moves. Oct 8, 2006
nicole
 
nicole  
 
Awesome route with some akward moves in a shallow crack. Mar 4, 2006
Ryan Avery
  5.8+
Ryan Avery  
  5.8+
Well, I liked this one too for the first 15 feet until I decked and broke my ankle in 3 places. Watch out for the opening moves and place early and often. I placed a bomber hex and #6 bd nut that held great. The problem, I didn't place when I had the chance at 15' up. A lesson to all leaders who get lazy with an easy grade such as this one. Awkward 5.8+. Oct 9, 2005
Buenazo!! Oct 7, 2005
Dustysdawg
  5.8+
Dustysdawg  
  5.8+
This is a really fun climb. It looks easier than it really is. There are three different 5.8 crux sections and all types of techniques are employed. I would give it a 5.8+ and three stars. I used all sizes of gear from a green alien up to a #3 Camalot. It takes great pro. Dec 27, 2004
This is a fine route that I led for the first time yesterday. Also, it's sandbagged by a point; it's solid nine. Oct 17, 2004
Tom Black
Long Beach, Ca
Tom Black   Long Beach, Ca
There's a nice "punch bowl" on the top...a great place to watch other climbers. Good crack climb to toprope for beginners. Mar 4, 2003