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Routes in Saavy Dome

Satyriasis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savwafare Ist Everywhere T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tube Steak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Steve Untch & Steve Bartlett, 1984
Page Views: 1,248 total, 11/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Dec 12, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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37 Opinions

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Description

This route features 3-star climbing on 2-star rock. It may clean up in time, but for now the route is a little chossy in places. It's quite steep and the pro is tricky at the crux. Very fun, with nice rest ledges. Walk off right.

Location

This route is located on the southwest-facing Savvy Dome, on the taller, righthand section of rock. It is about 8 feet to the left of Shame - a very thin 5.10c seam.

Protection

Up to #1 Camalot. Build an anchor with gear.

Photos

mhagny
  5.8+
mhagny  
  5.8+
The start is harder than 8+, even by J-tree standards. Fun, and the pro is good the entire way. It never slabs out or gets boring -- good route! Jan 5, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
Nice line and probably best if combined with a day at The Brown Wall. Easy walk off climber's right. Route based is flanked with two very nice sets of cactus. Lots of anchor options up top cams, nuts, hand size to 3" plus a nice belay. Dec 19, 2013
Canon
  5.8+
Canon  
  5.8+
Good route, solid rock quality. Started by traversing in from the left to avoid stepping on the cactus at the base of the crack. Crux up high was protected with a marginal 0 C3 (red) and a good #1 TCU. Didn't use anything bigger than a #1 camalot. After pulling through, you can protect that clutch right finger pocket with a #3 master cam. Lots of ledges make for bad fall potential, but you can place great gear overhead before getting making the moves off each ledge. Sling boulders + nuts for top anchor. Nov 22, 2012
Tradiban  
 
This was just ok. I didn't have alot of confidence in the rock either. Worth doing if you're walking by but I think there are better routes within a few hundred yards for sure. Jan 20, 2012
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
Sustained fun moves on great holds for almost half a rope-length. If this was in HVCG there's be a line on it daily. A must do if in the area. Apr 15, 2010
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
The rock on this route is actually quite good and the pro is pretty straightforward. A few small cams protect the crux very well. Feb 2, 2009