Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dag Kolsrud, Trond Ornhei & Hank Levine, December 1978
Page Views: 2,834 total · 14/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

This long and varied route, first climbed by a JT local and some visiting Norwegians, starts with a bouldery move onto a ledge and then moves up a right-facing corner with a thin crack that gradually widens as the corner gets steeper. Higher, pass a section with some gritty horizontals (stay left) and continue above in a hand-size crack that turns into an offset fist crack/ow at the top - despite the sound of it good jams can be had in the back and footholds are plentiful making it less of a thrutch than it may seem - the crack narrows at the very top to hands and conludes with a pull onto the level top with a nice view of the desert below.

Gear belay and descend by walking off or making a single rope rap (100') off chain anchors about 40' to the right (above Frankenwood).

This is, for the grade, one of the better crack routes in the area with it's varied moves, good rock and length factored in. Don't forget at least one large cam (4") for the top. Three stars out of five.

Location

Located between Thunderwood and Joyride.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches, including wires
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Nice route, and the crux is definitely the wide section at the very top. Rap off from anchors (100 feet) to the right (above Frankenwood). Nov 10, 2003
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
Fun, varied crack. Thin at the bottom, not thin at the top. One or two bigger cams is useful at the top. Long slings useful. Rap anchors are available about 40 feet climbers-right. Apr 9, 2007
Drederek
Olympia, WA
  5.7+
Drederek   Olympia, WA
  5.7+
Led this thinking it was a 5.7 and still believe so but wouldn't quibble with 5.8. a great route! Apr 9, 2009
kevin trieu
San Juan Capistrano, CA
kevin trieu   San Juan Capistrano, CA
I did this climb using BD #2 as my biggest gear. You can protect the wide crack section up top using BD C3's on the thin crack on the left of the wide crack. Nov 5, 2009
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.7+
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.7+
Underated. Fun movements on great holds/jams and a good size for Jtree. Apr 25, 2010
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Led this again yesterday after last leading it 15 years ago. Last time I had minimal big gear and thought the crux was at the top. This time I thought the crux was the middle section. Great route with a variety of moves. Apr 18, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Excellent route with clean continuous crack to the summit. Lower section taking smaller, finger or hand size gear. The obvious upper section takes plenty of big gear old-style #3.5, #4's and #3 Camalot at the lip. Bringing what I though was gobs of large gear and runners I placed all 3 of my larger pieces. The wide-ish crack continues up top, this optional anchor takes large gear so save some left or sling some boulders that are set back aways. If you're a total gamer you can exit early climber's right early to clip the gated shuts for Joyride setting a slingshot TR. Topping out and then trying to get down to them proved to too sketchy for me. YYMV. Jan 1, 2014
Bob Klaas
Long Beach, CA
 
Bob Klaas   Long Beach, CA
 
This is a super fun climb with lots of variety nestled in a beautiful area. There are two bomber boulders on top for anchor building. Long slings will come in handy. Rap chains to the right of the route are a bit rusty. Bolts and quick links look to be in good condition.

Note: The scramble off from climbers left is possible, but involved. There are a couple areas that have some serious fall potential. The scramble is perhaps worse going down than up. Apr 24, 2017
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Looks easier than it is. Definitely not 5.8. Great route with lots of variety, but solid 5.9 in more than a few sections. The top section was the crux for me. I was glad to have (2) 4's. Dec 25, 2017
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.9
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.9
Very fun, interesting start and finish. Nice J-Tree adventure climb. Oct 15, 2018