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Routes in Snickers - North Face

Bakersfield T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime of the Century T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Don't Think Just Jump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frankenwood T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Fresno T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Bone T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Global Revolution S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Times S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Humerous T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joyride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knightshift T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Mrs. Carvey Danison T A2+
No Place for a Puritan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Norwegian Wood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ridiculous Finish, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunderwood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Time in the Penitentiary (aka: Two Flew the Coop) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ulnar Nerve T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Young Tree S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dag Kolsrud, Trond Ornhei & Hank Levine, December 1978
Page Views: 2,351 total, 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This long and varied route, first climbed by a JT local and some visiting Norwegians, starts with a bouldery move onto a ledge and then moves up a right-facing corner with a thin crack that gradually widens as the corner gets steeper. Higher, pass a section with some gritty horizontals (stay left) and continue above in a hand-size crack that turns into an offset fist crack/ow at the top - despite the sound of it good jams can be had in the back and footholds are plentiful making it less of a thrutch than it may seem - the crack narrows at the very top to hands and conludes with a pull onto the level top with a nice view of the desert below.

Gear belay and descend by walking off or making a single rope rap (100') off chain anchors about 40' to the right (above Frankenwood).

This is, for the grade, one of the better crack routes in the area with it's varied moves, good rock and length factored in. Don't forget at least one large cam (4") for the top. Three stars out of five.

Location

Located between Thunderwood and Joyride.

Protection

Gear to 4", including wires
B. Klaasic
Long Beach, CA
 
B. Klaasic   Long Beach, CA
 
Super fun climb. Lots of variety. One of my J-Tree favorites so far. We climbed it on top-rope. Scrambled up and used a static rope to extend the anchor over the edge. Bomber boulders on top for anchor building. You can probably just use the shuts on Joyride to rig a toprope, but we rigged our anchor from scratch. Rap chains to the right of the route are a bit rusty. Bolts and quick links are in good condition. Apr 24, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Excellent route with clean continuous crack to the summit. Lower section taking smaller, finger or hand size gear. The obvious upper section takes plenty of big gear old-style #3.5, #4's and #3 Camalot at the lip. Bringing what I though was gobs of large gear and runners I placed all 3 of my larger pieces. The wide-ish crack continues up top, this optional anchor takes large gear so save some left or sling some boulders that are set back aways. If you're a total gamer you can exit early climber's right early to clip the gated shuts for Joyride setting a slingshot TR. Topping out and then trying to get down to them proved to too sketchy for me. YYMV. Jan 1, 2014
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Led this again yesterday after last leading it 15 years ago. Last time I had minimal big gear and thought the crux was at the top. This time I thought the crux was the middle section. Great route with a variety of moves. Apr 18, 2011
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.7+
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.7+
Underated. Fun movements on great holds/jams and a good size for Jtree. Apr 25, 2010
kevin trieu
San Juan Capistrano, CA
kevin trieu   San Juan Capistrano, CA
I did this climb using BD #2 as my biggest gear. You can protect the wide crack section up top using BD C3's on the thin crack on the left of the wide crack. Nov 5, 2009
Drederek
  5.7+
Drederek  
  5.7+
Led this thinking it was a 5.7 and still believe so but wouldn't quibble with 5.8. a great route! Apr 9, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
Fun, varied crack. Thin at the bottom, not thin at the top. One or two bigger cams is useful at the top. Long slings useful. Rap anchors are available about 40 feet climbers-right. Apr 9, 2007
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Nice route, and the crux is definitely the wide section at the very top. Rap off from anchors (100 feet) to the right (above Frankenwood). Nov 10, 2003