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Routes in Peyote Cracks Formation - W. Face

Button Soup T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Face It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Left Peyote Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Middle Peyote Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Peyote Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zygote T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,531 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux of this crack is low to the ground and is passed quickly- if you can protect overhead, this makes it a reasonable lead to push your grade on.

There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, The center of these starts with a slightly overhanging odd jam and proceeds upwards to easier territory. The climb protects from the ground and then again at the crux to make the leader pretty safe. Climb up on awkward moves (5.9 crux) to reach a lower angle jam crack above (5.6?) and proceed to the top.

The anchor up top requires cams of various sizes and a long coralette or webbing.

Protection

Standard J-tree rack- a few stoppers, a few cams to hand/fist sized.The route can be TR's from large cams in a crack above with either long runners or a cordalette.

Corey Flynn   USA
forget the pad, just eat some mushrooms and wear your approach shoes Mar 19, 2015
too many haters! ^^^ They probably all got shut down by the cruxy off-fingers start. This thing was fun - awesome freesolo! Oct 26, 2010
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10-
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10-
Crux is first 15 feet and is harder than 5.9. Straight in .5/.75 jamming a bit insecure for the book's 5.9 grade.

The rest of the route is easy 5.7 with a harder move up higher. Nov 30, 2009
Pat C
Honolulu
Pat C   Honolulu
This was like a boulder problem followed by scrambling. Don't waste your time with a rope. A pad could be useful though. May 3, 2009
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Definitely not as bad as made to seem. The crux beginning is fun to work for someone just breaking into the 9's at J tree. Jan 4, 2009
Darren D.
  5.9
Darren D.  
  5.9
I felt the peyote cracks were a waste of time. On the bright side, I didn't need to stand in line. Mar 28, 2007
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
  5.9-
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
  5.9-
A very good climb for new climbers to learn some jamming technique. May 18, 2005
Josh Beck  
 
Maybe a boulder problem, maybe a short route, doesn't really matter but it doesn't completely suck, it's fun enough. Not a main attraction or anything however. Mar 28, 2005
I'd agree that this route is definitely NOT worth doing, but I can say that I have, sadly enough. It's one of those routes that needs a 1/2 star rating because calling it a bomb is just not nice. LOL Mar 27, 2005
Ryan Avery
  5.9+
Ryan Avery  
  5.9+
This thing was not so hot in my book. I think it is awkward at best. Mar 26, 2005
Joe Brophy
San Diego
Joe Brophy   San Diego
Isn't this a boulder problem in Mari Gingery's guide? No worrries though. Plug away those cams mate! Apr 6, 2004