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Routes in Echo Cove - South Face

Allergy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Atari T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Axe of Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bacon Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo Dog Band T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C.S. Special T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips Ahoy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
F.U.N. TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Dogs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of God T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flake and Bake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon-Bartlett T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horny Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J.B.'s Variation TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Life and Limb T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out on a Limb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Veto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poodle Skirt T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Possessed by Elvis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.M.L. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Riddler, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sabretooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sicker than Jezouin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sitting Here in Limbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Statute of Limbitations TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
TM's Terror T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, Eben Stronquist and Rich Gottlieb, 1978
Page Views: 1,958 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 26, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route lies somewhere on the second-to-the-right-most (east) solid buttress of the south face of the Echo Cove Rocks. The buttress is easily identifed as being immediately left of a huge flake suspended up off of the ground between this rock and the next buttress to the right. This face sports 2 bolts, although certainly not where the Vogel book details them. The difficulty and severity of the climb depends upon the line taken by the leader. Approach the pitch via a few slab moves to a small ledge, and then begin climbing on natural gear to reach the first bolt (or not) and motor for the top. This is an easy lead, but probably not for a neophyte leader (check your head).

The belay sets well on hand-sized gear, but there are other possibilities too.

To descend, walk/scramble off to the climber's right (east) then south by a big "potato-chip" looking boulder, and then back west toward the base.

Protection

Mixed pro with two bolts. Take a light rack of stoppers, cams, & long slings.

Photos

ssp
ssp  
The time and place: Spring 92- Joshua Tree- Echo Cove
The men : Myself, Matt ' run it out' Buster and Vic ' the snakeman' Eberhard
The route : Flake and Bake -as we were feeling pretty much that way.
Did this one while still slightly drunk and hungover from the night before, hence the reason choosing this one. Not for any other quality than that, as it turns out the route offers none. Only to keep the string of climbing days alive. But we certainly were not feeling like hardmen more like near death men !
The only entertainment value we had while doing it was when we spied from a distance this Cadillac racing along the dirt road kickin up a giant rooster tail of sand, dust and stones. Making a fishtailing turn skidding into the parking spot. Narrowly missing the wooden fence.
This tall lanky guy gets out with just his shoes and shorts on walking across the desert floor over to where we were. There was a young couple to our right who seemed to be waiting for someone for a while.
Well this guy was that someone.
As he got closer on the trail I said "Good God it's Bridwell !"
The previous winter we had all hung out in Boulder for a night and what a riotous night it was. But that's another story.
He gets up to the couple looks over to where we were. Recognizes us with a nod and a wink hello. Obviously guiding these two, he proceeds to fire up the route in front of them. No harness,no gear just the rope trailing. Gets to some anchors and sets up a TR for the two and butt rappels down. The whole time the girl oogling at this hardman and the 'boyfirend ' feeling ever smaller.
We were toast after doing this route not because it's anything special ( it is not ) more so the sun baking us and the aforementioned embibements and called it a day.
We chatted abit and left him and his clients. As we looked back the guy is struggling on the route while Jim enamors the girl with brilliant harangue ! Oct 25, 2011
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
 
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
 
boooo. sketch, short, unfun. Dec 7, 2008
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
I thought the bolted line was pretty contrived too. Looked in the old Wolfe guide. Says that there were some flakes (hence, "flake and bake" eh?) on the route that must have gone galley west. Otherwise, the bolt locations just don't make sense. Best is to avoid upper bolt and head right into crack or left up easier face? Neat location when its windy... Jan 2, 2007
Drederek
  5.8
Drederek  
  5.8
Short, unremarkable and contrived, I just don't see the point of this "pitch" Apr 5, 2006
This route can be top-roped pretty easily. There are several boulders that can be slung and some cracks at the top. Jan 12, 2004