Flake and Bake
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Alan Nelson, Eben Stronquist and Rich Gottlieb, 1978 |
Page Views: | 3,280 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 26, 2002 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Description
Start about eight feet to the right of the boulder that spans the gap at the base of the wall. This boulder is also where Bacon Flake starts. Pull past a horizontal to a left slanting crack (harder of you are short). Follow the left slanting crack to near its top, then move right to the first of two bolts. Wander up the face above to reach the second bolt, then wander above that to the top.
Build an anchor in a horizontal crack with cams up to a gold Camalot. This can be the same anchor for Bacon Flake, using a blue Camalot in a vertical crack as a directional for Bacon Flake.
For the face climbing portion of the route, the difficulty really depends on the amount of wandering you do. If you climb basically straight up past the bolts, the route is something like 5.10a. If you wander a bunch, the difficulty is less.
To descend, walk/scramble off to the climber's right (east) then got down a chimney. At the base of the chimney, go over some boulders in the direction of the parking lot, and then circle back west on a ledge system toward the base of the climb.
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