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Routes in Rock Hudson

Absolute Zero T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gem Nabors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hot Rocks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ipecac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Less than Zero TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Looney Tunes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nereltne T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Long and Eric Ericksson, June 1974
Page Views: 2,086 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 19, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Follow a climber's trail, from the front loop of Hidden Valley Campground to this rock, passing along the west side of Outhouse Rock. This climb is the obvious widening crack left of center on the west face.

Climb the crack which widens through a variety of sizes, becoming a chimney near the top. Belay on top and walk off down slabs on the south face.

A good exercise of climbing different sized cracks. The top wide section is not as bad as it looks and is made more secure by staying to the back of the crack.

Protection

Gear to 4"

Photos

Cron
Barrington, NH
 
Cron   Barrington, NH
 
This thing is a blast on lead. Lots of funky move options. Maybe not so fun for the second for some reason? Mar 26, 2014
Randy
 
Randy  
 
A good varied climb. The wide and Chimney sections are pretty easy which detracts from the overall quality. 2 of 5 stars and well worth doing. Apr 29, 2009
JSH

 
JSH    
 
Interesting variety of comments! I found this easier than Touch & Go. The chimney is pretty secure.

I really enjoyed the route, especially the variety of climbing on it - a few moves of almost everything. Apr 29, 2009
Its old school trad. Definitely more physical than touch and go. I give it at least 2 stars for the variety and the old school nature of its climbing.

PT Mar 12, 2009
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Definitely not Round and Crumbly. A fun route, with great variety. Jan 4, 2009
Fun, varied climbing. The more technical moves seemed to be at the bottom, then it eases off. The wider stuff at the top is real easy, and fun. Nothing loose or crumbly. Only pro necessary was Green, yellow, red aliens and a #3.5 camalot. Two stars. Mar 20, 2008
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
 
This climb has it all. Stemming, jambing and chimney climbing! All in one. Feb 27, 2008
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9
Arduous and yucky. Harder than Touch and Go because it's roundidly wide, crumbly and not very fun. Did it only because we were ticking all we could on the wall on an otherwise dope filled boring afternoon. Jan 28, 2006
Ryan Avery  
 
Yack, I did this thing on 2nd and wished I was on lead. Make sure your partner places the same as you otherwise you will be wishing for some other fate as you try to pull pro at the crux.

Overall, a good climb but stay away if you don't like chimneys as the one at the top is strenous getting in and out. Mar 26, 2005
im sorry this climb does not deserve two stars, one star is pushin it.... i think. Aug 25, 2003
Dynomight510
  5.9-
Dynomight510  
  5.9-
A great variety of crack and face climbing skills are exercised on this route. Good feet would be your best asset throught the crux and exiting the chimney above to the top. There is no pro once you exit the chimney though the climbing is easy. My rack: nuts, cams to 3.5".

Not as hard as Touch and Go Aug 21, 2003