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Routes in Zippy Rock

And Grooving Was Grooving T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Stallion, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Canalizo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Die Young T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Does Royalty Give Head? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free As Can Be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hans Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jedi Master T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moustache, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Maxle S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Hamster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shongo Pavi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wild Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, December 1982
Page Views: 841 total · 5/month
Shared By: Donno on Apr 3, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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In the middle of the right-half of Zippy Rock is a crack that turns into a left-facing flake and then tops out as a low-angled hand crack: this is Hans Solo. This route is short, fun, and easy to protect. Maybe really 5.8. Scramble down ramp/chimney to the south.


med nuts to start, large cams to finish


Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
Short but fun. Extra half star relative to other climbs in the area. Pretty good rock (great considering the area). Easy for the grade. Oct 29, 2007
Portland, OR
Obi   Portland, OR
Felt short, even for Jtree standards. The rock quality appears questionable from a distance, but is good upon closer inspection. Nov 5, 2007
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Good rock, fun moves, low crux, soft landing. Solo this thing. Did this for my 400th Josh route. Jan 6, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Very short crux, even for a short route. Easily protects. Walk off down behind the formation and climber's right then skirting the formation back to the base. Nov 6, 2013

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