Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Evans, Steve West 3/78
Page Views: 3,712 total · 18/month
Shared By: David Evans on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


98 Opinions

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Description

This quality route is almost all on good gray varnish. Interesting moves past thin cracks lead to a ledgy area 1/2 way up. More interesting and steeper moves up thin cracks in a flared slot lead top a ledge just below the top. Either continue up a funky thin crack (5.8/9), the chimney just right (5.9) or walk off left.

Protection

Standard rack to 2".

Photos

Graham Roff
  5.7
Graham Roff  
  5.7
A pretty fun route with interesting moves on solid rails and flakes. Pretty mellow for 5.8, I would say not harder than 5.7 at most.There is a bolted anchor on top. Feb 27, 2005
Joseph Lee  
 
This is a great route with lots of fun and different moves. Oct 14, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Fun climbing with some interesting moves on mostly good rock, but the creaky jugs down low require some care. Apr 23, 2006
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.7
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.7
Fun climbing and a great route for a leader at that level. 5.7 gym climbing that's protectable the whole way if you need it. Apr 21, 2008
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.8
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.8
I had the chance to second this route. I think this was a darn impressive lead. IMO, I think a 5.7 gym climber might be in over their head on this one. This was a good route, not a top 60 as shared by a certain guidebook. The bummer for me was the rap station... I felt it to be awkward (although given they are so rare in Josh, I'll take it). A Metolius PAS wasn't the best with the anchor, would suggest a cordalette instead. Overall, a good one. Jun 19, 2010
Vitaliy
  5.8-
Vitaliy  
  5.8-
Excellent route, great warmup for the 5.10s next to it. Lots of foot holds that are not obvious at first but once discovered they make it very easy and a solid lead. Oct 4, 2011
Josh Cameron
California
  5.6
Josh Cameron   California
  5.6
Not a move over 5.6. The start is steep with tricky pro, but there are great hands and feet. A fun route, but nothing to write home about. May 8, 2012
Vitaliy
  5.8-
Vitaliy  
  5.8-
vimeo.com/65124862 Aug 15, 2013