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Routes in Snickers - North Face

Bakersfield T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime of the Century T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Don't Think Just Jump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frankenwood T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Fresno T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Bone T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Global Revolution S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Times S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Humerous T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joyride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knightshift T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Mrs. Carvey Danison T A2+
No Place for a Puritan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Norwegian Wood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ridiculous Finish, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunderwood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Time in the Penitentiary (aka: Two Flew the Coop) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trauma Traverse. T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ulnar Nerve T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Young Tree S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Waugh & Nick Badyrka, January 1978
Page Views: 4,107 total, 21/month
Shared By: David Evans on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Hard moves over a roof (the crux) to a strenuous handcrack lead to a ledge with rap anchor. The upper part is seldom done but continues up steep and varied crack climbing.

Protection

Standard rack to 3"
Souljah
Northern NM
Souljah   Northern NM
The hardest part of this lead was catching my 180lb second when he failed to turn the roof. Determined, I think he pulled it on his 5th go. I recall the upper crack being enjoyable, but maybe a tad anti-climactic? Apr 26, 2012
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.11a
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.11a
Protects well. Stays a little steeper than you might expect after the roof. If it's cold (this face stays a bit chilly) or you're super gassed (like I was), you may want a 3.5" piece to protect the last body length or so to the belay (which I didn't have, but a tipped out #3 camalot worked ok). The climbing is dead easy in that last little bit with plentiful face holds to help out, you certainly don't NEED a 3.5...but when you can't feel your fingers or close your hand...you might want one. Feb 25, 2007
Randy
 
Randy  
 
The "official" info that Tony Yaniro was on FA is actually incorrect. Tony showed this line to Mike and Nick and they all bouldered up it (doing the crux) and climbed back down. They agreed to return when they had more time to lead the entire route. The next weekend, Tony didn't show so Mike and Nick did the route w/o Tony. Tony later sent in FA info to Mountain Magazine crediting FA to he, Mike & Nick, because he had done the crux earlier. This info got picked up and was used in all guides since. It has been corrected in Vol.1. as have a number of other long standing FA mistakes. Nov 10, 2003
Murf
  5.10d
Murf  
  5.10d
The second pitch is worth doing once, thin crack to chimmney. Nov 10, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
A nice climb with a "sport climber's" start up overhanging jugs to reach the slanting hand crack. Rap off anchors on a ledge 50' up or grovel up an unpleasant chimney to finish. Nov 10, 2003