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Routes in Snickers - North Face

Bakersfield T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime of the Century T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Don't Think Just Jump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frankenwood T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Fresno T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Bone T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Global Revolution S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Times S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Humerous T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joyride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knightshift T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Mrs. Carvey Danison T A2+
No Place for a Puritan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Norwegian Wood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ridiculous Finish, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunderwood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Time in the Penitentiary (aka: Two Flew the Coop) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trauma Traverse. T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ulnar Nerve T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Young Tree S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Greg Epperson, Tucker Tech, Todd Gordon
Page Views: 165 total · 3/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Jan 1, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starting just below and left of the predominate corner of Norwegian Wood you'll find the base and start of this experience. Opening moves over green lichen gain you the first bolt in a small right facing corner. Trending up and slightly left across a sharp dyke system and up through the face crossing over middle banding of this wall. Bolts are nicely placed with only one section through easier ground that has a larger spacing pattern. Moving beyond the 4th bolt is undoubtably the crux. Leader and three other partners were unable to make the move beyond without AO assistance. Grainy flakes and sketchy rock was not instilling confidence in any of the team. A short flared hand-crack above leads to the final and probably best moves of the entire route before reaching the bolted anchor.

Rock quality is suspect. Exfoliating doesn't fully describe the grains and large plates that are ready to detach. Belayers beware and rocks from above could be headed your way.

Peer pressure and peer pressure alone is rating this route with 1 star. Length is nice as well as bolt placement but the quality of this line is not desirable. If you're into grainy ascents thinking it's part of the Joshua Tree experience you may walk away with some satisfaction.

Location

Located on the face slightly down & left of Norwiegen Wood. Most notable by the line of 10 black hangers.

Protection

10 quick draws and your preferred bolted anchor set up (runners recommended). Bolted & chain anchor above.

Photos

mhagny Hagny  
 
Once all the loose stuff gets knocked off this route, I think it will become a favorite.

As to the grade, I couldn't force myself (on lead) to climb directly above the 4th bolt -- instead, I eventually reached out left and grabbed a brownish sloper that might cleave off the wall at anytime. This softened the grade substantially, perhaps to 10a. On TR, another in my party was able to do it without using that sloper, and probably was 10d. Sep 6, 2015
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
The climbing is fun..but the rock in places is bunk....a heads up lead too;....not for the faint of heart..... Jan 1, 2014
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This thing is pure entertainment! Pretty fun moves while you grain shower the belay with every move. Take it easy on those flakes. Jan 1, 2014

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