Knight Shift
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02522, -116.15058 |
| FA: | (TR) Bobby Knight, Todd Swain April 1990, FL: Tony Sartin, Tom Murphy & Sonja Djuricin, April 2007 |
| Page Views: | 2,022 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | sonja on May 2, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This was originally done as a TR off of the Crime of the Century midpoint anchor. Because some of the rock is suspect, the FA party purposefully chose not to bolt the climb. The route was later bolted and now goes to the top of the cliff, joining the Crime of the Century chimney near the top.
Begin eight feet left of Crime of the Century on a juggy, left-trending overhang to a bolt at the lip.
The climb then wanders up the face, paralleling the Crime of the Century crack for 80 feet, passing six bolts and supplemental gear, to the base of the Crime of the Century chimney.
Either traverse left and lower off the Humerus anchor or continue up the Crime of the Century chimney to the summit. For the most bang for your buck, link this up with the 5.11b Ridiculous Finish.
Crux is between the third and fourth bolts.
This climb can be toproped after climbing Humerus or Funny Bone.



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