Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS: 34.02522, -116.15058
FA: (TR) Bobby Knight, Todd Swain April 1990, FL: Tony Sartin, Tom Murphy & Sonja Djuricin, April 2007
Page Views: 2,007 total · 9/month
Shared By: sonja on May 2, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This was originally done as a TR off of the Crime of the Century midpoint anchor. Because some of the rock is suspect, the FA party purposefully chose not to bolt the climb. The route was later bolted and now goes to the top of the cliff, joining the Crime of the Century chimney near the top.

Begin eight feet left of Crime of the Century on a juggy, left-trending overhang to a bolt at the lip.

The climb then wanders up the face, paralleling the Crime of the Century crack for 80 feet, passing six bolts and supplemental gear, to the base of the Crime of the Century chimney.

Either traverse left and lower off the Humerus anchor or continue up the Crime of the Century chimney to the summit. For the most bang for your buck, link this up with the 5.11b Ridiculous Finish.

Crux is between the third and fourth bolts.

This climb can be toproped after climbing Humerus or Funny Bone.

Location Suggest change

Start about eight feet left of Crime of the Century

Protection Suggest change

Six bolts, single set of stoppers, gear from green alien to .75 Camalot (bring larger gear if finishing up the chimney).

Photos

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