Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ivo Ninov and Dave Griffith
Page Views: 2,589 total · 28/month
Shared By: Josh Harding on Apr 8, 2011
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up 5.7 ramp to six bolts that traverse out right for 30 ft. Straight forward movements until the end, beware of loose blocks and grit. Distinctly uncharacteristic of Joshua Tree climbing, worth doing.

  • A slightly harder variation can be done at the last bolt.

Location

Located on the far left end of the North face of Snickers, obvious large corner/roof system.

Protection

One or two hand sized pieces, 6 bolts. Two bolt anchor with tat and leaver biners.

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Photos

Perfect timing to have a shoelace undone?!
Perfect timing to have a shoelace undone?!
 2
Ramping up to the business
Ramping up to the business
 0
Looking pumpy already!
Looking pumpy already!
 0

11 Comments

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Nick Barczak
Nick Barczak  
I've always wondered what this thing was. The steep but juggy climbing feels unusual for Josh. Super fun! Feels about 5.11b. Apr 19, 2011
Tommy L-D
 
Tommy L-D  
 
Awesome route, very uncharacteristic for Jtree.

Still needs a bit of cleaning up, we loosed quite a few chunks(up to brick sized), would HIGHLY recommend belaying from the ledge on the slab rather than directly beneath the climb, otherwise the belayer might want to bring a helmet. Apr 20, 2011
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
An excellent short video of the climb.

youtube.com/watch?v=EybEmJw… Jul 18, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Hey Roberto, what do you mean by the bolt came out on you? Did it pull out in a fall? Did it pop out under rope tension on a take? Did the entire bolt plus sleeve and cone pull out? Did the rock blow out? Feb 27, 2012
Roberto
La Jolla, CA
 
Roberto   La Jolla, CA
 
caughtinside,
I was leading when i got the to that bolt i had to push it back into the rock before i could clip it. It was sticking out about an inch and pointing slightly down towards the ground. i clipped it and the piton (which appeared more safe than the bolt, but who knows on old fixed gear).

My buddy was cleaning the route and he was able to easily pull the bolt out by hand. So yes, we pulled the bolt out. The bolt hole was much larger than the bolt and the expansion sleeve. It was pretty much just cammed in the hole.

So yes, we did pull the bolt, but that bolt was unsafe! Furthermore, there is a hold ready to break above it and IF that bolt pulled it would result in a bad fall onto the slab.

If and when that bolt is replaced it should either be placed way above the old placement with a wire extension or glued into the soft rock where it was. The first option would be ideal.

If there is major issue with the bolt being pulled I apologize and i would gladly repay the first ascensionist. I prefer that option over someone getting hurt.

i hope that helps. Feb 27, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Thanks for the explanation, I was just curious how it came out. I think you did the right thing. Hopefully people will see the bolt is missing before they head up! Feb 27, 2012
Roberto
La Jolla, CA
 
Roberto   La Jolla, CA
 
We took a piece of broken stone and wrote. "Missing bolt" at the base of the climb.

I hope people see it. Feb 27, 2012
Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
The missing bolt on Way of Life has been replaced with the permission of the NPS. There is a new 1/2" bolt close to where the old 3/8" bolt was. The new bolt is in slightly better rock. Thanks to the ASCA for the hardware. May 25, 2012
Randy
 
Randy  
 
"Permission" to replace (or place) bolts on this crag is not necessary as it does not lie in designated Wilderness. Apr 18, 2014
Ben Horton
Ben Horton  
Use caution on the last section. I was belaying a friend who fell going for the last bolt and the way it's set up, the rope runs along an edge of rock pretty aggressively. It cut the rope halfway through. (I even gave a bit of dynamic belay so it didn't wear all on the same spot) Sweet route though. May 19, 2015
Nick Fuller
San Jose, CA
Nick Fuller   San Jose, CA
The rope drag on this thing is a bit freaky. I wouldn't suggest falling between the last bolt and the chains. There were draws on the route when I climbed this, but they need to be extended in places to cut down on the rope-rock contact. Still fun and well-protected though. May 23, 2017