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Routes in Snickers - North Face

Bakersfield T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime of the Century T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Don't Think Just Jump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frankenwood T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Fresno T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Bone T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Global Revolution S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Times S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Humerous T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joyride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knightshift T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Mrs. Carvey Danison T A2+
No Place for a Puritan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Norwegian Wood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ridiculous Finish, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunderwood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Time in the Penitentiary (aka: Two Flew the Coop) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trauma Traverse. T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ulnar Nerve T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Young Tree S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tony Sartin and Bob Gaines, November 2006
Page Views: 859 total, 6/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

From the Humerous anchor, this direct finish continues straight up on slightly overhanging face climbing past 2 bolts to the top of the overhanging block, where there is a 2-bolt rappel/lower-off anchor (100 feet).

Protection

2 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
Climbed this extension two days ago and the crux felt tough for 11b. I haven't climbed many 11s at the park though (the other being Runway at Tumbling Rainbow, completely different technique.)

Getting the sequence right was very important. Steep edges on off balance (or poor quality) feet leads to the clipping rail for the second bolt.

Curious to see what someone who has climbed it a few years ago would have to say about the knob ripping off. Dec 3, 2013
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Not sure about previous comments, but I climbed this on 1/26/13 and found the thing to be a choss pile. The moves are cool but the rock definitely leaves something to be desired.

Oh yea, and a very crucial knob right in the middle of the crux ripped off right in my hand, mid move. So, its probably harder now.

Keep climbing it and it will be 5.13 in no time... Jan 28, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
Fun, and worth the tick if you're at the anchor looking up at it. Good holds, with engaging movement. Felt 10+/11- to me. I didn't realize how steep this mini-pitch was until I looked down from the anchors! Nov 25, 2008
Murf
  5.11b
Murf  
  5.11b
I'm kinda done w/a,b,c,d, more into 11-, 11, 11+. I think it's 5.11 for the onsite grade. You get this feeling you should undergrade because this bit is so short, but it's tricky, and punchy for its length. You have to think about the ledge that you never get quite far off.

In short, I sound like locker... 5.8+++. May 31, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Nice send, Susan! May 31, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a/b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11a/b
Murf, you climb a lot in Josh, you really think that thing is .11b? I led it today after not climbing in Josh for 4 months & hung after the first bolt. Figured it was my head, grains, ... but not the grade. Confirm it's a true 11b and I'll be pretty happy vs. disgusted I hung when I didn't need to.

After you get established it really is some fun climbing and absolutely worth doing if you're in the area. May be short but packs a good punch.

Finish hold to clip the anchors can be a burner. Also make note that even though the route is 2 bolts I clipped the chain anchors at the ledge too so bring an extra draw when linking up humorous with the Ridiculous Finish. May 30, 2008
Murf
  5.11b
Murf  
  5.11b
Fun moves, with some tricky beta. Pumps you out more than you would think for the distance. Apr 23, 2007