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Routes in Snickers - North Face

Bakersfield T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime of the Century T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Don't Think Just Jump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frankenwood T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Fresno T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Bone T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Global Revolution S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard Times S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Humerous T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joyride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knightshift T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Mrs. Carvey Danison T A2+
No Place for a Puritan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Norwegian Wood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ridiculous Finish, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunderwood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Time in the Penitentiary (aka: Two Flew the Coop) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ulnar Nerve T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way of Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Young Tree S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: (TR) John Bachar, 1978 (1st half only), FL and upper portion: Tony Sartin & Tom Murphy, April 2007
Page Views: 1,079 total, 8/month
Shared By: Murf on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Much like its neighbor to the left, Crime of the Century, Time in the Penitentiary start with difficult overhanging moves. The first technical crux comes early, with a tricky set of moves. Continue through the upper part of the roof and move left through some flakes to the level of the Crime of the Century anchor. Gear appears as needed, and you'll never get too run out.

From the ledge, clip a pin and set up for the second crux. A bomber .75 Camalot protects another roof with thin moves. Moving through juggy patina finishes the 2nd half of the route.

Location

Time in the Penitentiary starts 20 right of Crime of the Century. It is listed in the guidebook as Two Flew the Coop, a Bachar TR. This route continues higher than the previous TR.

Protection

1 bolt, 1 fixed pin, blue alien to yellow Camalot, with doubles from yellow Alien to .75 Camalot.

A heads-up belay is required at the bolt, as blowing the moves just above (the crux) will take you close to the deck. Gear might be possible just after the bolt, but be advised, a placement blew under body weight in this area during the FA efforts.

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