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Climbing Near Kennedy Meadows, California

Featured Trad, Sport, Bouldering, and other popular climbing routes and climbing areas Kennedy Meadows, California.

Nearby Climbing Areas


Southern Star

8 Miles Away | 13 Routes

This little gem is in plain but distant view from several points along the Sherman Pass Road. In the fall of 2011, after viewing it kind of close up from the Bald Mountain lookout I hiked in and was astounded to find a sheet of sparkling silver granite, completely untouched by climbers. June 2012, Jerome Webber and I made the first climbing visit where we established the classic “El Guapo”. Over that summer most of the climbs were established. There was a lot of local interest for the next few years but that died away till now we just talk about going back up. There are three main areas – the El Guapo Wall, the Nederlander Wall, and the Buttress. The El Guapo Wall has six classic face climbs, 10b to 11+. The rock is super quality and excellent for climbing with many edges, scoops, dikes, and inclusions. The right side of the El Guapo wall is bounded by a seldom done but nice 5.8 trad dihedral. The top of the wall is easily reached by scrambling from the left. Way over right on the “Buttress” there are moderate trad and mixed routes on nice rock. In the middle is the Nederlander Wall with three short sport climbs. There is a bolted 5.7 climb “Jefe” on a small slab left and down from the El Guapo Wall – more routes will eventually exist there.The El Guapo routes are all pretty stout and may seem a bit run out for "Sport" - in this regard a bit like Dome Rock or the Needles. All of the sport routes have Mussy hooks. Be prepared to walk off the trad lines.The crag is at 8,700’ and faces south. The sun is bright off the rock and it can feel too warm when the air is in the 60’s. On the other hand, with clouds and wind it can be freezing cold. Shades up mid/late afternoon. Dirt roads up here are usually open by Memorial Day weekend and will close at the first real snow (Nov or Dec). About 3/4 mile west (up) of Fish Creek Campground turn left on Mahogany Flat Road (21532). Proceed 2.8 miles and turn right and steeply uphill on Road 21532D (high clearance, PU, Rav4 AWD, Outback OK). About a mile up this ends in a loop. Park here and hike up canyon till the canyon narrows and you start side-hilling. At a huge Jeffery turn up hill and proceed more or less directly up to the dome staying right of a strip of trees and left of heavy nasty white thorn brush. Head to the talus below El Guapo to approach all the areas.  If the Mahogany Flat Road gate is closed drive or walk up Mahogany Creek Road to the end. Hike up the slope to the south and contour over to the crag, 0.8 miles and 800 feet gain from road’s end. 36.03805,-118.2464. 


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* Distances are approximations from location associated with the route.
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