Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Ed Ehrenfeldt & Mike Pope, July 1976, FFA: Mike Waugh, Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt, 1981
Page Views: 21,432 total · 125/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Words cannot describe how amazing this route is.

P1: Take the same right-facing corner start as Thin Ice/Ice Pirates. Move the belay to the far left end of the ledge formed by the top of the flake. 5.9+

P2: The next two pitches follow the immaculate left-facing corner system. Climb a long finger crack with stemming and progressively harder moves. Belay at bolts. 5.11.

P3: Continue up the corner system. Again, 5.11.

P4: Climb up a lower angle face and corner with tricky gear, step left and belay on the face below the huge roof. 5.10.

P5: Undercling out the roof to the right, pull the roof, change corners, and continue to the summit. This is very physical and strenuous, but awesome. 5.11. It is also possible to escape left, but probably not as classic.

It's hard to say where the crux is. Physically, and according to the rating, the last pitch gets it, but we felt the technical cruxes were on P2 and P3. This route is rated easier than Atlantis, but the Atlantis crux is short and powerful. This climb is continuous and sustained and felt much harder.

Descend to the north; see the description for the Sorcerer for more details.

I can't believe I'm saying it, but a climb like this puts routes like Wunsch's Dihedral and The Naked Edge to shame.

Protection

Double set of cams from micro to 0.5 Camalot. A single 0.75 and #1 Camalot. Wires, larger RPs. Lots of quickdraws and a couple double-length slings.

Photos