The Don Juan Wall
Avg: 3.9 from 67 votes
Routes in The Sorcerer
|Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pyromania T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13|
|Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Ed Ehrenfeldt & Mike Pope, July 1976, FFA: Mike Waugh, Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt, 1981|
|Page Views:||16,830 total, 120/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionWords cannot describe how amazing this route is.
P1: Take the same right-facing corner start as Thin Ice/Ice Pirates. Move the belay to the far left end of the ledge formed by the top of the flake. 5.9+
P2: The next two pitches follow the immaculate left-facing corner system. Climb a long finger crack with stemming and progressively harder moves. Belay at bolts. 5.11.
P3: Continue up the corner system. Again, 5.11.
P4: Climb up a lower angle face and corner with tricky gear, step left and belay on the face below the huge roof. 5.10.
P5: Undercling out the roof to the right, pull the roof, change corners, and continue to the summit. This is very physical and strenuous, but awesome. 5.11. It is also possible to escape left, but probably not as classic.
It's hard to say where the crux is. Physically, and according to the rating, the last pitch gets it, but we felt the technical cruxes were on P2 and P3. This route is rated easier than Atlantis, but the Atlantis crux is short and powerful. This climb is continuous and sustained and felt much harder.
Descend to the north; see the description for the Sorcerer for more details.
I can't believe I'm saying it, but a climb like this puts routes like Wunsch's Dihedral and The Naked Edge to shame.