Avg: 4 from 103 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Randy Leavitt & Tony Yaniro, June 1981|
|Page Views:||32,036 total · 175/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
P1: Begin by climbing the overhanging right-facing flake just right of Thin Ice. Strenuous but straight-forward. 5.10c.
P2: Climb up flakes to briefly join Thin Ice, but then traverse right on more flakes to a bolted belay. 5.10.
P3: Step right to the tips crack, get a couple pieces in as high as possible (purple TCU, wires), take a deep breath and punch it on really powerful tips liebacks to an obvious incut slot. Shake, place more pro, and continue up on slightly easier terrain (including a beautiful hand crack). Belay on a ledge. 5.11c.
P4: Climb out left from the belay through a small, tricky bulge/roof, then continue up the corner system to the summit. 5.11a. It is also possible (and recommended!) to do the spectacular Lost at Sea flake which departs from the right end of the belay ledge (but unless you climb 5.12+ slab you'll have to rap back down and climb the standard P4 to top out anyway).
Descend to the north; see the description for the Sorcerer for more details.