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Routes in The Sorcerer

Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pyromania T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Randy Leavitt & Tony Yaniro, June 1981
Page Views: 26,417 total · 182/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

Atlantis climbs the steep and singular feature just right of Thin Ice.

P1: Begin by climbing the overhanging right-facing flake just right of Thin Ice. Strenuous but straight-forward. 5.10c.

P2: Climb up flakes to briefly join Thin Ice, but then traverse right on more flakes to a bolted belay. 5.10.

P3: Step right to the tips crack, get a couple pieces in as high as possible (purple TCU, wires), take a deep breath and punch it on really powerful tips liebacks to an obvious incut slot. Shake, place more pro, and continue up on slightly easier terrain (including a beautiful hand crack). Belay on a ledge. 5.11c.

P4: Climb out left from the belay through a small, tricky bulge/roof, then continue up the corner system to the summit. 5.11a. It is also possible (and recommended!) to do the spectacular Lost at Sea flake which departs from the right end of the belay ledge (but unless you climb 5.12+ slab you'll have to rap back down and climb the standard P4 to top out anyway).

Descend to the north; see the description for the Sorcerer for more details.

Protection [Edit]

Single set of cams from tiny to #2 Camalot. Wires.
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11c PG13
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11c PG13
I recommend doing the Lost at Sea finish. After arriving at the Lost At Sea anchor one can rappel down and left to arrive back at the belay, then finish on the last pitch of Atlantis.

A good link-up is Thin Ice to Atlantis to Lost at Sea to Atlantis. Nov 14, 2007
Brad G
 
Brad G  
 
This is a glorious climb! A must if youÂ’re a 5.11 trad climber living in California, or anywhere for that matter. ***** Jun 8, 2008
ChugachMan  
 
Ridiculously fun climb, with short, but heady cruxes. A lot of fun. Sep 8, 2009
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
This climb is extraordinary! The rock quality, position, and climbing are all amazing.

P1: I used a #3 & #4 C4 and felt very comfortable that way.
P3: Use the Lost at Sea bolted anchor after the hand crack. Every stance above this either has questionable gear or is semi-hanging.


Jul 16, 2012
Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
  5.11+ PG13
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
  5.11+ PG13
I agree, the topo says to keep climbing past the bolted anchor after the handcrack on pitch two but this made no sense to me. You have to climb a good bit further before you can get decent gear for an anchor and the stance is less than ideal. I can't think of any reason you wouldn't want to use the bolted anchor. Dec 3, 2012
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Single set felt a bit on the thin side... You can definitely bring bigger gear for P1, but then you're trying to place it in the hardest part of the pitch... Pitches 1 and 2 link nicely. Sep 30, 2014
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.11c PG13
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.11c PG13
Surprised no one has mentioned much about the last pitch. Has always stood out in my mind as the real crux, though maybe not the hardest climbing. Randomly had ballnuts on the rack for some reason one time and remember a bomber placement with one that made things a bit more reasonable. 3rd pitch is perplexing right off the ledge but gets easier once you commit and start going. Oct 13, 2017
Yes, the last pitch remains my scariest lead. My memory is of running it out on 5.11 ish terrain, 15 feet above a gray mastercam with a truly laughable nut 6 feet below that. I was surprised that nobody says anything about that pitch too, but it's the Needles, they're supposed to be ~~shrouded in mystery~~ or whatever. May 14, 2018

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