Avg: 3.9 from 82 votes
Routes in The Sorcerer
|Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pyromania T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13|
|Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Randy Leavitt & Tony Yaniro, June 1981|
|Page Views:||25,595 total, 184/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionAtlantis climbs the steep and singular feature just right of Thin Ice.
P1: Begin by climbing the overhanging right-facing flake just right of Thin Ice. Strenuous but straight-forward. 5.10c.
P2: Climb up flakes to briefly join Thin Ice, but then traverse right on more flakes to a bolted belay. 5.10.
P3: Step right to the tips crack, get a couple pieces in as high as possible (purple TCU, wires), take a deep breath and punch it on really powerful tips liebacks to an obvious incut slot. Shake, place more pro, and continue up on slightly easier terrain (including a beautiful hand crack). Belay on a ledge. 5.11c.
P4: Climb out left from the belay through a small, tricky bulge/roof, then continue up the corner system to the summit. 5.11a. It is also possible (and recommended!) to do the spectacular Lost at Sea flake which departs from the right end of the belay ledge (but unless you climb 5.12+ slab you'll have to rap back down and climb the standard P4 to top out anyway).
Descend to the north; see the description for the Sorcerer for more details.