Type: Sport, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Tony Yaniro, Brett Maurer & Randy Leavitt, 1982
Page Views: 15,433 total · 98/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 19, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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This is the crown jewel of sport climbs at the Needles. In an area that is known for its soaring corner systems and beautiful trad climbs, in many ways, this is a counterpoint: A soaring, flawless arete, protected by a handful of draws...

But this is no Boulder Canyon sport route -- expect to earn the clips. High on the route there is a 20' run to a bolt, followed immediatly by a 25' run to the next one! Serious air is possible on this route, which is supposedly Yaniro's "favorite" climb.

Although it is technically two pitches, and there is a sit-down rest on the flake that marks the end of the first pitch, the way to do it, of course, is in one. The rope line is perfectly straight, but that won't change how heavy the rope feels when perched tenuously to the upper reaches of the arete in a lieback, feet smeared, poised to make a desperate clip.

It's a serious sandbag to call this 11+, or even 12a for that matter. It is 12a in the Needles' sense of 12a. Few moves on its 150' are easier than 5.11. The physical crux is in the first pitch: relentless thin crimps up slightly overhanging golden-brown granite. The upper arete is home to several technical and mental cruxes. Every inch of the entire climb offers awesome, cerebral movement.


Scramble up under the base of Thin Ice, etc, then to the top of the Fire Wall and down to a chockstone belay stance.


15 draws and a long sling (for the anchor at the top of P1). Skip the old, stray bolt immediately before this anchor and climb up and left instead. One 60m rope requires rapping from the top, then once again to the ground. Thankfully, the bolt immediately prior to the long run out is beefy ASCA equipment. Stick clip the first bolt or at least have your belayer anchored in if you're going for it.