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Routes in The Sorcerer

Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pyromania T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bill Leventhal, Brian Jonas, Craig Lemond, September 1997
Page Views: 2,867 total, 28/month
Shared By: Levy on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is right of Sirocco & is better protected than its more famous neighbor. Fun, steep face climbing on flakes & edges crosses the Sirocco ledge & continues up the face, tending right to the anchors. There is a crux is about halfway up passing a bulge, although the upper crux is engaging as well. The route could be extended to continue into Don Juan Wall, to the right but it would likely be more difficult than 5.11. One may also use this approach to get to the first anchors of Sirocco

Location

Located between Sirocco, and Don Juan Wall, on the East face of the Sorcerer. You start out of the gully behind the block just left(South) of the start of Thin Ice.

Protection

Some small nuts & cams for the belay at the start of the route. Only bolts are necessary for this route. A rarity for the Needles. 7 bolts, plus 2 for the anchors.

Photos

Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.11b
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.11b
Fun route, should have a letter associated with the grade. Not very sustained/pumpy, just a couple of distinct boulders, one at the bottom and one at the top so I give it a B, but I'm a lanky fucker so that top boulder might feel more like 11c to some.

I put a bomber small cam in to protect the move to the first bolt. I think this is a better approach than just anchoring your belayer to the ground/ boulder (think factor 2 fall into the gully below the boulder, unfortunately I have first hand experience with such a situation). Aug 23, 2017
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.11c
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.11c
I said two fixed biners aka carabiners not pins... The anchor is two bolts each with a piece of chain and a biner on the end for lowering. The only reason I mentioned is is because there are no hangers, just a short chain and a carabiner. Nov 17, 2009
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Confused....The route description states that there are two bolts for the anchor, but Luke states that there are two pins. Which is it?

Edit: Indeed you did write fixed biners. I guess I saw 'fixed' and my brain computed 'pin'. Thanks anyway Luke. Nov 1, 2009
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.11c
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.11c
There are 8 bolts on this route. A belay can be made at the base by looping your rope around a boulder. The anchor has two fixed biners that allow you to lower off. Sep 8, 2009