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Routes in The Sorcerer

Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Duty Now for the Future T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Fantasia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scirocco S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: FA: Fred Beckey (5.7 A2) 4-73, FFA: Dave Bruckman, Todd Gordon, Mari Gingery, Scott Loomis, Mike Fogarty
Page Views: 3,842 total · 39/month
Shared By: john durr on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A stellar one pitch thin seam on the northwest face of Sorcerer. Purity of line, sustained and technical, beautiful rock with very fine moves make this a single pitch classic on a cliff full of multi-pitch classics. A challenging lead.

Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof and move left and up ramp/dihedral with nice finger cracks until the ramp pinches off. Drop down and left to the bolted anchor.


Just down from the Sorcerer / Charlatan Notch on the northwest face of Sorcerer. This route is easily approached by rappelling down Spooky or on the descent from other routes on the Sorcerer. Afternoon sun.


A good assortment of small offset brass stoppers, set of stoppers, extra tcu's, one each cams to 3", a Yates Screamer to clip the fixed copper head might help who knows?

The route ends at the main bolted rappel anchor for the Sorcerer's north ridge normal descent towards the notch at Spooky.


John - 2-3 sets of DMM brass and two full sets of Master Cams? That's a lot of gear for a route that doesn't take more than a handful of good pieces. Sep 20, 2010
Scary lead. Makes it all that more rewarding. Really good. Oct 17, 2011

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