Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Randy Leavitt & Brett Maurer - '81
Page Views: 5,126 total · 41/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Easily as good as any route on the Sorcerer but decidedly less popular. Perhaps because of a bit of spice (but nothing unmanageable) here and there? It should be climbed as often as Don Juan and Atlantis. It is fantastic.

Begin by scrambling to the top of the Fire Wall and then descending underneath the huge chockstone upon which one belays for Scirocco. Continue scrambling down and over a large bush to a belay perch beneath the obvious left-facing corner system.

P1 (5.11a, 60'): I recommend stick clipping the first bolt which is about 15' up. It's some tricky thin moves getting started. The landing wouldn't be too bad, so you could probably boulder it out. Once you have the bolt clipped, climb another 15' of unprotected and cruxy 5.11a face climbing to a horizontal and more gear. Best not to fall off the jugs or you'll deck. From here it's positive climbing to the top of a pillar. Belay here - a short, 60' pitch and possibly the crux of the route.

P2 (5.11a, 150'): Head up off the belay via a fun, varied corner to a huge slung flake. It's possible that this was a commonly used belay, but the pillar stance below is much better and it's easy to skip this (hanging) belay and continue to the next comfy stance. From the flake follow an amazing hand crack in the corner (save those #2 and #3 Camalots) to a stem stance where the crack arches out left. Save a #3 Camalot to place high and commit to a funky move up, right, and back into the corner. This protects well. Easier climbing past a pin leads up to the bolted belay of Sirocco on a perch on the arĂȘte.

P3 (5.10b, 100'): Utilize the arĂȘte and corner to work your way up off the belay (thin gear) to a good stance below some flakes. Load these up with small cams and bust left to a wild, exposed flake. Thankfully it is positive and more inspiring pro isn't too far away. Follow the flake up and step left around the SE corner of the Sorcerer to belay at some large, grainy flakes.

P4 (5.10- R or 5.7, 100'): Climb up giant knobs to a cruxy and completely unprotected move. Easier climbing leads to a short right-facing corner and good pro which then leads to a huge ledge. Belay at the tree. This pitch is dangerous, but fun. If you're not psyched, you can traverse straight left and enter an easy right-facing groove/chimney. This protects and checks in at 5.7.

Continue up over the top to the typical Sorcerer rappel.

NB: Having done the route once I would do it again in two massive pitches next time... not sure this would be wise your first time up, though.

Location

Begin below Scirocco and climb the corner just left of it.

Protection

2x from tiny to fingers.
1x 0.5, 0.75, and #1 Camalots.
2x #2 and #3 Camalots.
Wires, a few larger RP's, a couple slings and draws.

Photos