Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Sorcerer

Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Duty Now for the Future T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Fantasia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scirocco S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Vernon & Wall, FFA: Vaino Kodas & Larry Siebold
Page Views: 1,610 total · 11/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The Raven is a nice technical stemming corner. The first pitch is the business, and one can rap off it via some assorted fixed hardware (which may need to be supplemented) or continue on an easier pitch to the top.

There are three or four nice but obscure routes on the upper *west* face of the Sorcerer. The Raven is the furthest right of these and climbs a very obvious right-facing corner. Approach from the Sorcerer/Charlatan notch via downclimbing and a rappel. The climbs are obvious.

The Raven sews up pretty well with tiny gear, but the crack is very small and if you have big fingers it will feel much more like a stemming and smearing test-piece then a crack climb. Near the top things get particularly difficult, but some help lies just to the right. Almost anywhere else this would be a 3-4 star climb, but it's hard to justify that considering what else lies nearby.

Rap down or continue on easier climbing to the top.

Protection

Mostly small stuff including wires & RPs.

Photos

Murf  
I moved right about 1/2 up the corner, as it seemed in the guidebook. Have seen the moves at the top of the crack marked as .11a or .11b, seemed much easier. The meat of the matter is definately getting high enough to move right. Oct 19, 2006
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Although not multi-pitch like the classics on the opposite side of the Sorcerer, this pitch is as classic as any single pitch I've done on the formation. Awesome stemming with a cool crack switch, all on stellor rock with bomber albeit small pro. I give it 3.5 stars the only detraction being that it is a mere one pitch on a formation of multi-pitch classics. Apr 15, 2007
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.11a
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.11a
The first pitch can easily be top-roped with a single 60m rope (3 bolts, and two chains at the anchor). I protected the route with a single rack from #00 Metolius to 0.5 Camalot, with a single set of regular and offset nuts. The gear looks sparse and tricky from below, but it appears at regular intervals and is solid. Often overlooked, this route is well worth climbing. Aug 26, 2013

More About The Raven

Printer-Friendly