Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Sorcerer

Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pyromania T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tradewinds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,551 total, 17/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jul 19, 2010
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb is on the West Face of The Sorcerer (facing out towards the Magician). It starts just downhill from Sleight of Hand. Traverse out right on a large flake (exposure right from the get go!). Lieback and jam up some easy flakes angling up and left towards a roof. (optional belay under the roof)

Pull directly over the roof on some juggy flakes (5.9) and then climb up an easy slab to a bolt (5.5 R). From the bolt climb up and left to a second bolt. A couple more moves of 5.8/5.9 friction gain the more featured rock above. Take the low angle jugs and knobs to the top of the massive flake (5.5 R). Step across the gap between the flake and the main wall and belay on this ledge. The anchor takes small TCU's. Scramble over the top of the Sorcerer to the other side where the rap anchor is.

I used a 70 meter rope to do this in one pitch although it may also be possible with a 60M. In any case, be sure to extend any gear you place under the roof.

Location

The quickest way to approach the route is by scrambling to the top of the Charlatan and rapping down to the notch with 2 ropes via the Spooky anchors. From here you can scramble (4th class downclimb) to the start of the climb or set up another rappel with gear or by slinging a large pine. This temporary anchor can be retrieved after you finish the climb and rap back down to the notch.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
There is one bolt on the face as mentioned above. It is a 1/4" buttonhead and the runout is a solid 25' to the top with one "hard" move after it.
This route feels like an alpine climb. The line is not as clean as most of its neighbors, but it's a great warmup. If you're solid you can climb all the way to the summit in one pitch with a 70m rope. Jul 16, 2012
Nothing amazing about this one. I only recall one bolt on the flake - a 1/4" buttonhead in relatively good shape - and a big runout above it to the finish. Did I miss a second bolt, or is there just one? Aug 30, 2010