Stars and Stripes Forever
Avg: 2 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft|
|Page Views:||1,583 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Bryan G on Jul 19, 2010|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis climb is on the West Face of The Sorcerer (facing out towards the Magician). It starts just downhill from Sleight of Hand. Traverse out right on a large flake (exposure right from the get go!). Lieback and jam up some easy flakes angling up and left towards a roof. (optional belay under the roof)
Pull directly over the roof on some juggy flakes (5.9) and then climb up an easy slab to a bolt (5.5 R). From the bolt climb up and left to a second bolt. A couple more moves of 5.8/5.9 friction gain the more featured rock above. Take the low angle jugs and knobs to the top of the massive flake (5.5 R). Step across the gap between the flake and the main wall and belay on this ledge. The anchor takes small TCU's. Scramble over the top of the Sorcerer to the other side where the rap anchor is.
I used a 70 meter rope to do this in one pitch although it may also be possible with a 60M. In any case, be sure to extend any gear you place under the roof.