Gulley No.1 Buttress Rock Climbing
|GPS:||44.212, -71.405 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||8,590 total · 115/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Aug 5, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
NOTE on SORTING ROUTES- The normal "path" from the RR tracks ends at the far right of the buttress at the climb "First Shot", so in walking along the base the climbs are encountered in a furthest-RIGHT-to-LEFT order.
A somewhat steep, but short approach from the RR tracks rewards the climber with an interesting cliff. Quite different from the slab routes on the main slab of Willard. Routes are moderate and some fairly well protected. If desired, the "R" and "X" routes (or at least their most interesting portions) can be TR'd (after leading one of the 5.6 - 5.7 routes) with a little ingenuity, 2 ropes and long slings.
With "Gunkswest"'s contributions, I think that most of the known routes are now listed herein. This crag was covered in the long-out-of-print 2nd edition (not the 3rd, which covers only the Eastern White Mts.) of Ed Webster's White Mt. Guide.
Now walk about 1 or 2 minutes "Up-Tracks" (towards the cliff) to the first little (8-inch) drainage channel through the tracks. Go about 30-40 more RR ties, and look for a cairn and steep climber's path up to the base. Keep your eyes open for the path (once really indistinct, now getting much better) and occasional flagging tape.
Upon reaching the rock (10 +/- min), after another 30-40 ft of "up" along the base you come to a nice, large flat rock which is just a few feet left of the start of "First Shot" and a few feet right of "Hattie's Garden"(the climb). To get to "Part the Sea" Drop down 35-40 ft right to a low point, then up 25-30 ft to the obviously-just-cleaned "Part-the-Sea" (...of lichen).
Classic Climbing Routes at Gulley No.1 Buttress
Days w Precip