Gulley No.1 Buttress Rock Climbing
Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress
|Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X|
|Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Aug 5, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionHave you just finished one of the slab routes on Willard's Main Slab and it's too early to quit, but too late to do another 4-pitch route-and-rap? From the tracks at the base of "Cinema", walk south along the RR tracks about 5 min to the path up to Number 1 Buttress and tag one or two of the routes there! (Walking south keep an eye out for the cairn on the right; if you miss it you'll come to the 8" drain-ditch through the tracks about 30-40 RR ties south (beyond) the cairn and path.)
NOTE on SORTING ROUTES- The normal "path" from the RR tracks ends at the far right of the buttress at the climb "First Shot", so in walking along the base the climbs are encountered in a furthest-RIGHT-to-LEFT order.
A somewhat steep, but short approach from the RR tracks rewards the climber with an interesting cliff. Quite different from the slab routes on the main slab of Willard. Routes are moderate and some fairly well protected. If desired, the "R" and "X" routes (or at least their most interesting portions) can be TR'd (after leading one of the 5.6 - 5.7 routes) with a little ingenuity, 2 ropes and long slings.
At present not all the routes on this buttress are listed. Until these are added to this site, see the long-out-of-print 2nd edition (not the 3rd, which covers only the Eastern White Mts.) of Ed Webster's White Mt. Guide for more info.
Getting TherePark on Rt 302 at a gravel pullout (room for a 1/2 dozen cars) on the left side (going "up-notch" from Bartlett) off the road about a half mile above the Willey Slide pullout (coming from the south/east) or 1 1/2 miles below the AMC's Highland house. (From the north/west). Coming from the South/East this pull-out is JUST before the Saco Rivers crosses underneath Rt 302, and just beyond where 302 crosses over a smaller stream. A rocky logging-road starts from the rear of the parking, but quickly turns into a trail. Hike up the well-cairned trail to the actual "Hattie's Garden". (about 10-15 min and quicker than walking in the RR tracks from the Notch).
Now walk about 1 or 2 minutes "Up-Tracks" (towards the cliff) to the first little (8-inch) drainage channel through the tracks. Go about 30-40 more RR ties, and look for a cairn and steep climber's path up to the base. Keep your eyes open for the path (once really indistinct, now getting much better) and occasional flagging tape.
Upon reaching the rock (10 +/- min), after another 30-40 ft of "up" along the base you come to a nice, large flat rock which is just a few feet left of the start of "First Shot" and a few feet right of "Hattie's Garden"(the climb). To get to "Part the Sea" Drop down 35-40 ft right to a low point, then up 25-30 ft to the obviously-just-cleaned "Part-the-Sea" (...of lichen).
Classic Climbing Routes at Gulley No.1 Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season