Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 140 ft
FA: Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham May 2012
Page Views: 125 total, 2/month
Shared By: Bob A on Jun 17, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This a variation start to Todd Swain's route "Land Ahoy" ( see Websters '87 [2ne ed.] guidebook) Fun trad variation up the left side of the "rainbow" arch on the Gully#1 buttress to join at at top of the arch to Swain's Land Ahoy.
Start at the small weakness at toe of the slab on left,up this trending right to the start of the arch. Protect, then up the arch to the top to join Land Ahoy. Pull that crux and climb straight up past two well spaced bolts to a two bolt rap anchor on left.

Swain's route "Land Ahoy" starts at the base of the slab,right of the arch. Climb straight up the face(5.7R) to the top of the arch, protect and continue on up past two bolts to the anchor on left.

Location

The route starts below and left of the obvious flake/arch on the Gully#1 buttress.Rappell with two ropes or with one using the Part the Sea anchor down and left below the grassy terrace,then down and left through the clean streak.
To find the Gully 1 buttress,look for a large pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min),turn right for approx. 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.

Protection

Standard rack to 3 inches.double on #1 and .75 camalot size may be helpful.Two bolts on the upper part of Land Ahoy to a two bolt rap anchor.All old bolts have been upgraded in 2012.

Photos

Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
 
Great moves up this wonderful natural feature. Keep your cool for the first 40', then you are rewarded with some very exciting and aesthetic climing! Seems the more natural and obvious start to Land Ahoy. Shouldn't be missed! Jun 18, 2012