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Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft
FA: Todd Swain and Mike Cody Aug 18, 1980
Page Views: 191 total · 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 29, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Some nice moves.

START- A few feet left of "Cody's Lament" and about 10-15 ft right of "Hattie's Garden", almost directly above the 3ft x 3ft flat boulder on the ground, and 20-25ft below a 6" overlap with a bolt below it.

P1 - Climb the thin face below the overlap, clip the bolt and continue up passing a 2nd bolt beneath a smaller overlap and a 3rd bolt (where "Cody's Lament" joins) by a slab. Continue to the trees and rap with two ropes. 180-200 ft 5.8+ PG-13/R

Protection

At the suggestion of "Madeline" rack is 3 draws and....RHall's comment that: I believe that one can get a wire "Stopper" in (or possibly a small cam) near the lower crux by the photo of the climber ("RW...") but above that, yes it's run out except for the bolts. Hence the name.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
I believe that one can get a wire "Stopper" in (or possibly a small cam) near the lower crux by the photo of the climber ("RW...") but above that, yes it's run out except for the bolts. Hence the name. Aug 23, 2016
Madeline
Cambridge, MA
5.8+ R
Madeline   Cambridge, MA
5.8+ R
There are three bolts on this route and no opportunities to place gear. An appropriate rack would be 3 draws and a cordelette. Aug 22, 2016