Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham May 2012
Page Views: 1,534 total · 17/month
Shared By: Bob A on Jun 17, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Really fun and well protected climbing up a line of quartz crystal pockets to a two bolt rap anchor.

In late 2017 AJ Hunter cleaned and put in a 2nd pitch to this climb (he called it "The Ten Comandments")  It's, perhaps, a "half-to-one grade" or so more difficult. Be sure not to overlook Bolt #1 while looking up at B#2 and #3, and also take the trad gear (esp. medium nuts) or you'll be way running it out.     The rap from the P2 anchor to the P1 anchor requires a full-length 70m rope !  

Location

The route is located on the Gully #1 buttress just below the Gully#1 winter ice climb. The route starts about 20 ft up and left of the toe of the slab at the 2nd of three small curvy trees.It takes a cleaned-off line through a "sea " of lichen.

To find the Gully #1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min,)turn right on tracks for approx. 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up the the cliff(10-15 min).

Protection

Standard rack to 3.5 inches.Don't forget the Tricams!The climb can seem runout just below the anchor if you don't find the small cam placement inside one of the crystal pockets near the top.

Photos