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Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham May 2012
Page Views: 1,112 total, 17/month
Shared By: Bob A on Jun 17, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Really fun and well protected climbing up a line of quartz crystal pockets to a two bolt rap anchor.

Location

The route is located on the Gully #1 buttress just below the Gully#1 winter ice climb. The route starts about 20 ft up and left of the toe of the slab at the 2nd of three small curvy trees.It takes a cleaned-off line through a "sea " of lichen.

To find the Gully #1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min,)turn right on tracks for approx. 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up the the cliff(10-15 min).

Protection

Standard rack to 3.5 inches.Don't forget the Tricams!The climb can seem runout just below the anchor if you don't find the small cam placement inside one of the crystal pockets near the top.

Photos

John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.6
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.6
Great gear placements for cams and tri-cams (hard to see from ground) and fun. Climb it Oct 19, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.5
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.5
Beautiful, solid climbing, 100% trad protection to the dbl bolt anchor, with only one "thin-ish" move near the bottom. Never found the tricam placement in the run-out 5.3-5.4 to the anchor. At one point it looked like a #3 Camalot would work, but tugs on it kept it slipping 1/2 inch to totally expand it. Jun 8, 2015