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Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft
FA: Todd Swain & Mike Cody
Page Views: 119 total · 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The climber that made the 2nd ascent, informed me that this Swain route should be pronounced "Leed Poisoning", as in "Who is the climber leading that route?" According to Webster, Swain and Cody required three attempts to finish this route!

Webster/Swain listed the climb as 5.9, but other sources (NE Climbs) gives it a 5.10 which, considering the protection is still 30+ year-old 1/4" bolts is probably best. The belay bolts, however, HAVE been replaced.

START: About 40 ft right and down from the Mice & Men corner, at a shallow right-facing corner. From the start of "Part the Sea" walk uphill (steeply) for about 40-50 ft, then cut back right on steep ground to the START, a small dirt "ledge".

P1 Up the corner onto a sloping ledge, then easily up to the left end of the large sloping ledge that is the alternate belay of a shortened P1 of "Superior Races'. Now, up a short left-facing corner (pitch crux is just below the bolt) passing a 1/4 inch bolt about 90 ft up. [The bolts to your right with aluminum hangers are on the climb "Superior Races".] Straight up, then trend left another 30-40 ft to a bolted belay, [new 3/8" bolts, see the climb "Mouseketeers"] almost impossible to see from below, but located about 25' ft left of two small oak trees. 130-150 ft 5.7 R (We thought about 5.6 PG-13/R with some 5.4-5.5 R. Perhaps a bit more opportunities for protection than implied by Webster/Swain)

P2 per Webster: "Diagonal up a ramp, step left to a flake, climb steep rock to a short right-facing corner (bolt). Exit left* at the top* making thin moves (5.9) [...5.10?] past a 2nd bolt*. Follow a thin crack through a headwall, climb an arete and belay. 140-150 ft 5.9" - 5.10? [* NOTE: while this is the Webster description, in fact the two bolts are quite close together.]

P3 Up an easy arete to the top.

Descent - Rap with 2 ropes to the "Lead Poisoning" belay (now two 3/8" SS bolts; see the route "Mouseketeers").
The FA party walked off to climber's right and down. ( Uhg !)

Location

Starts about 30 ft right, and down, from the Mice and Men corner.

Protection

Std Rack

Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I remember Todd..nice climb, a bit run out. Nov 9, 2015
Gunkswest   CA
The name "Lead Poisoning" was meant as a pun, as the first pitch is fairly dangerous for the leader (the first bolt is 75 feet up and was hand drilled on the lead [with a lot of whimpering]). Hence, the correct pronunciation is "leed."

The FA did take three trips, as all the drilling (and spilling) was done by hand, free on the lead, while wearing "Shoenard" climbing shoes (better than RR's, but not as good as EBs for slabby face climbing). Nov 9, 2015