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Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Todd Swain & Brooks Bicknell summer 1980 P2: Todd Swain, Don MacDougal, Scott Metzger & Curt Robinson May 16, 1982
Page Views: 63 total, 2/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Nov 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Up and left of Coin de la Souris is another buttress (The Hidden Buttress). This wall is separated from Gully #1 Buttress by a gully (which can be used to descend from the Gully #1 climbs).

P1: Climb a shallow left-facing corner to a ledge (5.6; 50').
P2: Climb the obvious right-facing corner above until you can step left to a birch tree on a ledge. Step right and layback flakes to gain a slab, which is climbed to the top (5.6).

Location

Up and left of Coin de la Souris is another buttress (The Hidden Buttress). This wall is separated from Gully #1 Buttress by a gully (which can be used to descend from the Gully #1 climbs).

Descend down and right to the top of Gully #1 Buttress (roughly the top of Lead Poisoning), then go down the gully separating Hidden Buttress from Gully #1 Buttress to the base of the route.

Protection

Carry a standard rack.

Photos

- No Photos -
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
To get to the Hidden Buttress from the base of Buttress #1, hike left and up steeply (past "Mice & Men"'s corner) to a steep gulley, with moss-covered boulders, that runs up along the far left side of Buttress #1. Sep 7, 2016