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Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 120 ft
FA: Bob Ahearn and Nick Dukehart May 2012
Page Views: 167 total, 3/month
Shared By: Bob A on Jun 17, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The climb is located on the Gully #1 buttress below the Gully#1 winter ice climb.Fun climb with interesting moves on nice rock.The crux is at the first bolt but the first gear is about 20 ft up so there is a bit of an entrance fee but not too hard to get to.

Climb the face just left of the right hand side of the "rainbow" weakness to protection about 20 ft up on the right.A couple of balancey moves to a mantle and stance to clip the first bolt.Step a little left,pull the crux and climb up slightly left past three more well spaced bolts to the two bolt anchor on Land Ahoy.

Location

To find the Gully#1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between the two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden on the tracks(10 min).Turn right and follow tracks for approximately 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage ( 8-inch "slot") in the tracks and look for a small clearing on the left ( 30 RR ties further) with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.

Look for an obvious flake/arch(life By the Tracks)which forms the left side of the "rainbow"weakness.Start on the face about 8 ft left of the right hand weakness.Rappell with two ropes or with one 60m down to anchor on Part the Sea below garden terrace on left,then down and left to start of that climb.

Protection

Gear from .4 to #3.5 Camalot for the moves before the first bolt.Then four draws to two bolt rap anchor on Land Ahoy.

Photos

John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.8 PG13
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.8 PG13
I enjoyed this route. Heady to the first cam, than there's enough pro. Careful of the fragile flakes that are in several spots. Oct 19, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8- PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8- PG13
I'm no sure what the "official" size number is, but a Green "TCU 'Micro' Camalot" (0.2 , 0.3 ??) slots into a great vertical placement about 20 ft up. Great route, esp. figuring out the moves past Bolt#1.
The cliff seems to actually be getting some use, which it should! (Also, the path is more defined now, presumably from use.) Sep 29, 2014
Bob A
 
Bob A  
 
Thanks for adding some flagging there.I hope you got to climb something and I hope you did not get stung! Jul 26, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8- PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8- PG13
OK...I found the approach 'path' today. It is ONLY ONE (1) MINUTE's WALK from the actual Hattie's Garden along the tracks. (Last time we didn't' look soon enough!) To be precise, the 'path' starts 32 railroad ties beyond the one-and-only small drainage ditch (a 8" deep cut between two ties). Also, walking in from the Crawford Notch side, this is the only such "drainage" between the toe of the main slab (Cinema Gulley/Std Route) and the site of Hattie Gordon's house (now site of the memorial garden with memorial stone, etc.) Today (7/25/14) I created a slightly larger cairn, and re-flagged the "path". The climbing looks quite nice. Beware the yellow jackets about 1/3 up the path! Jul 25, 2014
Bob A
 
Bob A  
 
Sorry you missed it Rob.
I did put some orange tape on some of the trees last year to make it easier to follow.
If I get some time soon I will head up and see what it looks like.
Should be less than 10 minutes from the tracks to the base.
I'll bet the bugs are pretty bad right now though... Jun 10, 2014
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
 
Very fun route! Nutsy start to the gear placement, but the movs are all there. I think this is a three star route but I could be biased!! :) Nice find Bob! Jun 18, 2012