Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Paul Comier and Alex Shultz, May 1998|
|Page Views:||305 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Jun 22, 2015|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
START- We took advantage of the somewhat clear ground at the start of "Part the Sea" and started here. The FA may have started a few feet left. There's a vegetated dirt "ledge" a few feet up and left of "Part the Sea" which is probably the actual start.
P1 - One move on "Part", then immediately move left and then up (5.5 R/X) to the first bolt. Past this to a small flake-overlap, over this (Yellow Camalot TCU; crux for shorter climbers) and the 2nd bolt. We belayed on the ledge (gear, med. cams) just above the 2nd bolt. 115ft NEClimbs.com's listing is 5.7, we thought 5.7+ or 5.8- PG-13/R with 5.5 or so R/X.
P2 - (can be combined with P1) Up on solid, but poorly protectable rock, passing another, older Alumnium-Hangered 3/8" bolt. Above this trend up and left to the bolted belay of "Lead Poisoning" [Note, new 3/8" bolts...see "Mouseketeers"] 80-90 ft 5.5 PG/R [ NOTE: We totally missed the normal belay off to the left, and headed for the small oak-tree clump directly above the bolt and rapped from there. At the time the bolts had not yet been replaced, but they are fairly well "hidden" in thr corner. These small (2015) trees are at the exact level, and about 30-35 ft right of, the "LP" belay.]
P3 - per "NEClimbs.com" "Move right 20 ft and climb the blocky finish to the top. 80 ft 5.6" This has been reported as quite dirty and harder than 5.6, see comments.
Descent - Rap with 2 ropes to the "Lead Poisoning" belay (Now 3/8" SS), then another 2-rope rap to the ground.