Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Comier and Alex Shultz, May 1998
Page Views: 164 total · 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 22, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Looking up and left from the base of "Part the Sea" two new-looking Aluminum-T-Bar-Hangered 3/8" bolts can be seen about 50-70 ft up. These are on the climb The Superior Races F.A. by P. Comier & A. Shultz 1998. [ The Aluminum T-Bar hanger is sort of a "trade mark" of a Comier route, and these look like he either recently installed, or recently replaced older bolts. ]

START- We took advantage of the somewhat clear ground at the start of "Part the Sea" and started here. The FA may have started a few feet left. There's a vegetated dirt "ledge" a few feet up and left of "Part the Sea" which is probably the actual start.

P1 - One move on "Part", then immediately move left and then up (5.5 R/X) to the first bolt. Past this to a small flake-overlap, over this (Yellow Camalot TCU; crux for shorter climbers) and the 2nd bolt. We belayed on the ledge (gear, med. cams) just above the 2nd bolt. 115ft NEClimbs.com's listing is 5.7, we thought 5.7+ or 5.8- PG-13/R with 5.5 or so R/X.

P2 - (can be combined with P1) Up on solid, but poorly protectable rock, passing another, older Alumnium-Hangered 3/8" bolt. Above this trend up and left to the bolted belay of "Lead Poisoning" [Note, new 3/8" bolts...see "Mouseketeers"] 80-90 ft 5.5 PG/R [ NOTE: We totally missed the normal belay off to the left, and headed for the small oak-tree clump directly above the bolt and rapped from there. At the time the bolts had not yet been replaced, but they are fairly well "hidden" in thr corner. These small (2015) trees are at the exact level, and about 30-35 ft right of, the "LP" belay.]

P3 - per "NEClimbs.com" "Move right 20 ft and climb the blocky finish to the top. 80 ft 5.6" This has been reported as quite dirty and harder than 5.6, see comments.

Descent - Rap with 2 ropes to the "Lead Poisoning" belay (Now 3/8" SS), then another 2-rope rap to the ground.

Protection

Normal rack, TCU's and/or Aliens for the lower section and the flake-crack on P1.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Well shit ! i thought you were talking about lead poisoning...my bad (pretty good route BTW) Aug 23, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
Ah, yes....but THIS old climber had a "brain fart"...While Todd led the FA of Lead Poisoning it was Paul Comier on FA of Superior Races. Just as bold a leader! Aug 23, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Ah yes,,the old,bold climber. Aug 23, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
Yes, Todd Swain is a VERY bold climber. Ratings tend to be a bit "old school" also. Aug 23, 2016
Madeline
Cambridge, MA
Madeline   Cambridge, MA
Beta on pitch 3: it is very, very lichen-y and R+. There were 2, maybe 3, solid gear placements. Aug 22, 2016