Type: Trad, Alpine, 115 ft
FA: Todd Swain - solo, then placed bolts on rappel
Page Views: 134 total · 3/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This route climbs the face to the right of the right-facing corner of "Life by the Tracks". Looking up one believes it devoid of protection, but the leader climbing with a set of small-to-medium wired stoppers and an open mind will find "just enough" protection.

START: about 20ft Left of Hattie's Garden, which is also about 20 ft right of the "toe" of the slab, directly below a sort of "arrowhead" flake that points downwards. The "point" is about 3 ft off the ground.  Alternate start: A little further left, directly below two left-facing "half moon" flakes; climb up and place gear in a flake high on the left, climb up to the right, them back up and left to the corner.

P1 - Up past the thin Left-facing flake (gear=nut behind) then up to a 2" horizontal that leads back [Alt] to near the top of the corner. From the top of the corner, climb excellent rock past two bolts (3/8" replacments for Todd's original 1/4") to the two-bolt anchor 'shared' with Hattie's Garden. 115-120 ft 5.7  [A single 70 meter  makes it to the ground; otherwise use two ropes; or rap left to the "Part the Sea" P1 double bolt anchor, then a 2nd rap down from there to the ground. ]

Alternative - Climb the thinner face directly above the 2" ledge. Possibly the route of FA. More difficult (5.8 +? R-ish)

P2- (Seldom done, not recently cleaned) Up to the right past a bolt.

Location

see "START"

Protection

Small to med. wired stoppers, normal rack.

Photos

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