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Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 115 ft
FA: Todd Swain - solo, then placed bolts on rappel
Page Views: 93 total, 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This route climbs the face to the right of the right-facing corner of "Life by the Tracks". Looking up one believes it devoid of protection, but the leader climbing with a set of small-to-medium wired stoppers and an open mind will find "just enough" protection.

START: about 20ft Left of Hattie's Garden, which is also about 20 ft right of the "toe" of the slab, directly below a sort of "arrowhead" flake that points downwards. The "point" is about 3 ft off the ground.

P1 - Up past the thin Left-facing flake (gear=nut behind) then up to a 2" horizontal that leads back [Alt] to near the top of the corner. From the top of the corner, climb excellent rock past two bolts (3/8" replacments for Todd's original 1/4") to the two-bolt anchor 'shared' with Hattie's Gargen. 115ft 5.7
Alternative - Climb the thinner face directly above the 2" ledge. Possibly the route of FA. More difficult (5.8 +? R-ish)

P2- (Seldom done, not recently cleaned) Up to the right past a bolt.

Location

see "START"

Protection

Small to med. wired stoppers, normal rack.

Photos

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