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Routes in Gulley No.1 Buttress

Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft
FA: Todd Swain & Jeff Foster
Page Views: 78 total, 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 29, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Mike Cody (not Joe Cote) must have lamented missing this line. (?) ...or maybe not with the "X-ish" rating! The 2 stars assumes doing the route with a TR anchor.(see below)

If you are not a fan of leading 5.5-5.6X, it is possible to move 15-20 ft left of the "First Shot" anchors and get gear into a left-facing corner/flake to set a "directional", and then lower down with a 70 M rope, thus TR'ing the interesting climbing on this route.

START- At a tiny, right facing flake/corner about 15-20 ft left of "First Shot", and directly below a streak of dark rock that extends from the top of the cliff.

P1 - Climb up past the tiny 'corner' and continue on the dark streak of rock about 15-20 ft left of "First Shot." A little below the level of the anchor of "first Shot" move left to intercept the line of "Ground Zero" at it's 3rd bolt. Continue to the trees. 200 +/- feet, 5.5 - 5.6 X


According to Webster the FA party actually found some "protection" in the form of a #1 Stopper and a #1 Hex. If you routinely carry these on your rack for other than aid climbing, you're a real traditionalist!