All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Crawford Notch > Mt Willard > 02. Gulley No.1 Butt…

Cody's Lament

Name: Cody's Lament
Rating: 2.0

5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British X

Routes in 02. Gulley No.1 Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
	Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Ten Comandments (Mid-cliff start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m)
GPS:	44.21229, -71.40458
FA:	Todd Swain & Jeff Foster
Page Views:	750 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Nov 29, 2014
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Mike Cody (not Joe Cote) must have lamented missing this line. (?) ...or maybe not with the "X-ish" rating! The 2 stars assumes doing the route with a TR anchor.(see below)

If you are not a fan of leading 5.5-5.6X, it is possible to move 15-20 ft left of the "First Shot" anchors and get gear ( small, yellow TCU fits a ‘hole’ perfectly) into a left-facing corner/flake to set a "directional", and then lower down with a 70 M rope, thus TR'ing the interesting climbing on this route.

START- At a tiny, right facing flake/corner about 15-20 ft left of "First Shot", and directly below a streak of dark rock that extends from the top of the cliff.

P1 - Climb up past the tiny 'corner' and continue on the dark streak of rock about 15-20 ft left of "First Shot." A little below the level of the anchor of "first Shot" move left to intercept the line of "Ground Zero" at it's 3rd bolt. Continue to the trees. 200 +/- feet, 5.5 - 5.6 X

Protection

According to Webster the FA party actually found some "protection" in the form of a #1 Stopper and a #1 Hex. If you routinely carry these on your rack for other than aid climbing, you're a real traditionalist!